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New Way 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Nov 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: The green and faded red sling are the fixed tat. ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch starts up a hand crack which is a bit wide. It will take #3 and #4 Camalots. You can start in another narrower hand crack to the right which will take nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot. The real route is the crack on the left. Above, you ascend a nice hand crack which is a bit under cut at the start. It climbs well once you are established in the crack. Further up you move into an alcove where you will find some tat on a slung block and a fixed nut. You could belay here, but most will continue up. Above is an offwidth crack. It starts as a #5 Camalot-sized crack and gets bigger above. Heel toe technique and small face holds get you up to a big, flat belay ledge.

The second pitch goes to the right and joins a route called Opus which is not listed on this site. You could go left and join the second pitch of Turkey Foot Crack, but I have not done this. This second pitch is 5.8 and starts up a nice hand crack. There are some smaller-than-hands-sized placements, and towards the top of the crack you can place a #5 Camalot. Above a bulge, the climbing gets easier and more slabby as you move to the right. The second pitch ends near Moot Point after a small downclimb.

This is a fun climb if you like offwidth, and the first part of the second pitch ascends a fun crack. The only bad part of the climb is the approach.

Location 

This route is on the east face of the Sunshine Wall. It is to the right (east) of Turkey Foot Crack. It is also to the right of Astro Turkey. It is just to the right of the route Mr. Green Jingus which is not listed on this site but is in the newest guidebook. The route is identified by a hand crack which leads up into an alcove. You can walk off with some scrambling after the last pitch. You descend as you would for The Hall of Mirrors and head south back to the base.

Protection 

Standard rack and big gear. 1 #6 and 1 #5 Camalot and one blue Big Bro. A #4 Camalot is good to have too.


Photos of New Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin in the offwidth about to place a Big Bro.
Kevin in the offwidth about to place a Big Bro.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin approaching the offwidth.
Kevin approaching the offwidth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin on the right crack start variation.
Kevin on the right crack start variation.
Rock Climbing Photo: A good view of the start of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the start of the climb.

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