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New Wave 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,280
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Me on toprope.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is the sport climb immediately left of Heathenistic Pursuit. Start behind a large boulder and make some techy moves up under a roof. Turn the roof at its right end and continue up some easier face climbing before firing the crux just below the anchors. The crux is somewhat beta intensive, but once you've got the sequence this is a sort of easy 11d (if there is such a thing!).

This can be easily toproped after climbing the first pitch of Heathenistic Pursuit.



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Rock Climbing Photo: Mike leading New Wave
Mike leading New Wave

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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2011

I wouldn't call this easy 11d. Maybe if you are tall you can reach through both cruxes more easily but it will still stay on you. Also, the bolts aren't amazing but since most people toprope it anyways, you could also place a medium nut in a shallow slot up by the last bolt (extend with a shoulder) and be pretty confident that the top pro will hold if you blow that crux.
By Ranger Matt
From: Yosemite NP
Aug 18, 2011

There is a variation to the left (slightly easier), which stems up off the large rock in front of the wall. This avoids the brutal, thin crux down low by going straight up to the roof and travering to the right. There is a different bolt for this vartiation but is of suspect quality.
I found this to be more fun than the tweaky direct line.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 6, 2012

FA: still undetermined
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 7, 2012

A few of the bolts are bad. Three are spinners, and the last is rusted badly and a bit undermined behind.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Aug 16, 2012

The last bolt (which protects the final crux) was replaced earlier this year. The rest of them are still sort of old and sketchy.
By Kyle Queener
From: Bishop, California
Jan 26, 2015

I felt the crux was in the balance moves down lower heading to bolt #2. The upper section felt straight forward and I didn't think it was very hard to figure out or very strenuous. Although this comes from a guy who climbed this route because I was flailing around on the 5.10 corner to the right and bailed. A consensus has been reached that I'm a better bolt clipper than a widget jammer.

Fun movement, a couple good bolts and a couple bad ones.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 12, 2016

The top crux feels really greasy if you use the side pull. If you try the problem without utilizing the side pull it may be easier. Try to be creative.

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