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Elevation: 798 ft
GPS: 43.80285, -71.83444
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 74,247 total · 352/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ten of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.

Since New Wave packs so many excellent routes from 5.8 to 5.14 onto one ledge, it's low on elbow space if too many parties are there at one time. Make sure you don't drop any gear, dogs, or children off the edge. It's a long way down.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the trail toward Orange Crush from the second parking lot. Where the trail goes left to Orange Crush, walk up and right. Follow cut steps in a log and a narrow trail up the hill to the left side of New Wave. The blunt arete at the head of the trail is Ace of Spades.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: New Wave Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New Wave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 254
Air and Pleasant Danger
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
Night Crawler
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 253
Smokestack
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 166
Black Dog Crack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 229
Ten of Spades
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 103
Short Wave
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 143
Salley's Alley
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 106
Barking Spiders
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
Retrospade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 130
Weevil Knievil
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 127
Vallee Daze
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Paradox
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 31
Roaring Silence
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 12
Dark Star
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 10
Strict Scrutiny
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Air and Pleasant Danger
 254
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Night Crawler
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Smokestack
 253
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Black Dog Crack
 166
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ten of Spades
 229
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Short Wave
 103
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Salley's Alley
 143
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Barking Spiders
 106
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Retrospade
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Weevil Knievil
 130
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vallee Daze
 127
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Paradox
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Roaring Silence
 31
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Dark Star
 12
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Strict Scrutiny
 10
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Wave »

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