|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Stefan Doucette on Apr 15, 2008|
|Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on New Vector||Add Comment|
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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|The route is called New Vector and shares a common start and anchor with the finger crack route to its left - Fractured Fairytale. Bring RPs and small TCUs for the technical and sustained, upper, tips crack section. The ledge at the first roof has a really sharp edge, be sure & place a directional above it for seconding/toproping.|
By Moritz B.
Oct 25, 2015
There was quite some vegetation when I got on this route today, I was on gardener duties for a while!
Anyways, bring some RPs or small nuts for the top. I didn´t have them with me and had to dig deep, climbing above a 0.3 for a while. Good route, balancy. You either have a good foot or a good hold. The book gives this climb a rating of 10+. The grade is fair, but we will have to downgrade Fairytale to 5.9 then.
By nate post
Mar 6, 2016
|Fun climb, but next time I will bring some RPs up with me. I ran it out quite a ways. Climbing it in this style certainly adds some butt puckering.|