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New Vector 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Stefan Doucette on Apr 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Glenn getting reacquainted with his yet to be name...

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>


Twin cracks after the roof that lead you up the slab to the anchors. You can see that the starting dihedral was a little slimy that day, but surprisingly it had no affect on the climb. By the way, I just made up the name of this climb - I'll change it when it's officially named.


Mostly small cams and wires, with a few larger pieces for the bottom half/roof (size 3 cam at the biggest.) Anchors at top.

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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The route is called New Vector and shares a common start and anchor with the finger crack route to its left - Fractured Fairytale. Bring RPs and small TCUs for the technical and sustained, upper, tips crack section. The ledge at the first roof has a really sharp edge, be sure & place a directional above it for seconding/toproping.
By Moritz B.
Oct 25, 2015

There was quite some vegetation when I got on this route today, I was on gardener duties for a while!
Anyways, bring some RPs or small nuts for the top. I didn´t have them with me and had to dig deep, climbing above a 0.3 for a while. Good route, balancy. You either have a good foot or a good hold. The book gives this climb a rating of 10+. The grade is fair, but we will have to downgrade Fairytale to 5.9 then.
By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Mar 6, 2016

Fun climb, but next time I will bring some RPs up with me. I ran it out quite a ways. Climbing it in this style certainly adds some butt puckering.

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