The New Traditionalists
|Original: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Pete Absolon, Bob Burgher 1986 FFA Eric Horst, Rick Thompson 1987|
|Season: ||some morning sun, afternoon shade|
|Page Views: ||949|
|Submitted By: ||camhead on Sep 20, 2011|
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The guidebook says of this line, "Seriously, it's an 80 foot fingercrack!" Although there is a bit of a chimney section, the description pretty much sums it up (and I think there's some sort of finger crack in the back of the chimney, so...).
The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests. I thought that there were two distinct cruxes that were both hard for the grade.
about 10 minute walkdownstream from the Beckoning, and about 3 minute walk upstream from Fingercrack in White Corner.
hands down to microstoppers. emphasis on blue and purple tcu size. There are bolted anchors about 8 feet shy of the top.