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Beckoning, The T 
Converging Paths T 
Finger Crack in White Corner T 
Judgement Night S 
Killing Fields S 
Luv Nuthing T 
M&M T 
Munson Burner T 
New Traditionalists, The T 
Temporary Insanity T 

The New Traditionalists 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Pete Absolon, Bob Burgher 1986 FFA Eric Horst, Rick Thompson 1987
Season: some morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 1,018
Submitted By: camhead on Sep 20, 2011

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The guidebook says of this line, "Seriously, it's an 80 foot fingercrack!" Although there is a bit of a chimney section, the description pretty much sums it up (and I think there's some sort of finger crack in the back of the chimney, so...).

The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests. I thought that there were two distinct cruxes.

Location 

about 10 minute walkdownstream from the Beckoning, and about 3 minute walk upstream from Fingercrack in White Corner.

Protection 

hands down to 0 TCU. emphasis on blue and yellow tcu size. There are bolted anchors about 8 feet shy of the top.


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