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18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
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Saviour Heart T,S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
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War Party S,TR 

New Tradition 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Sorenson 2002
Page Views: 3,216
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Oct 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Floyd Hayes leading at the wild step across a chas...

Description 

From the base of Shute-Mills, continue down around the corner to the obvious arete with six bolts. This well protected climb is probably 5.7 if you happen to find the best holds at the crux, just after the first bolt (stay left), but be prepared for it to feel more like 5.8, which I think is a more accurate rating. Stepping off the pillar to clip the fifth bolt is a bit spooky; a fall would really hurt, but it's an easy move. The upper headwall has perfect cracks for gear, I'm not sure why two bolts were placed--must have been to guide sport climbers to the top.

Protection 

Six quick draws for six bolts


Photos of New Tradition Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful day on New Tradition.  Really enjoyed th...
Beautiful day on New Tradition. Really enjoyed th...
Rock Climbing Photo: friend leading new tradition
friend leading new tradition
Rock Climbing Photo: One of my favorite routes at the far side
One of my favorite routes at the far side
Rock Climbing Photo: Wesley Moore leading New Tradition 5.8. Photo by F...
Wesley Moore leading New Tradition 5.8. Photo by F...

Comments on New Tradition Add Comment
Show which comments
By jay.thomason
Apr 13, 2015

This was a friend's first real outdoor lead. Fun but definitely a bit run out between the fourth and fifth bolts -- the moves aren't hard but a fall just before the fifth bolt could be pretty dangerous.
By FourT6and2
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 18, 2016

Climbed this yesterday. Such a fun route! Great views and flows really smoothly. But... definitely not a 5.8. More like a 5.4/5.5 The holds are huge and feel like gym holds. I'm not complaining, it was a blast!

Two bomber bolts for anchor at the top, next to the bolts for Shute-Mills. Bolts have rap rings.
By Chris. B
May 31, 2016

I climbed this yesterday and based on FourT6and2's rating and part of their anchor description it would appear they were on a different route. However, this route is very distinct and therefore it seems unlikely that FourT6and2 was on a different route. Therefore two points on FourT6and2's comment:

The people who contributed to the consensus rating of 5.8 appear to have the experience to know what they are talking about. Therefore, in no world is this climb a 5.4/5.5, i.e. 3-4 grades softer than the consensus. This site is for informational purposes. People use it to assist in choosing a route within their ability in order to be safe. Therefore, in my opinion, saying a 5.8, or even a 5.7, is a 5.4 is inconsiderate and dangerous, especially for a lead route with a run out section such as this one.

Also, both bolts at the top were spinners. After assessing, I did decide to use them to set up an anchor to be lowered down and for top rope. However, due to the nature of spinners the top bolts are not "bomber".

As an additional note, this route bakes in the afternoon sun. Climb it early in the day.
By Kevin Miller
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 5, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I led this last month to set up a TR for the gang. I thought that the only 5.8 move was just after the first bolt. The rest of the route seemed like 5.7, and is quite vertical and enjoyable for the grade. The move from the pillar to the upper head-wall may be a little intimidating for a 5.8 leader, but don't let it shut you down!

The anchor bolts are still spinners as of July 2016, but I think are pretty solid for lowering/rapping. There is a third bolt a couple of feet above the rings, so I used that to back up the TR.

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