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Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
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Bloody Fingers T 
Chimney T 
Double Vision T,S 
Mystery Achievement S 
New Toy S 
Twist and Crawl T 

New Toy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a X [details]
FA: Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 1,810
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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BETA PHOTO: Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.


This is the face below the anchors on Bloody Fingers. There are only 4 bolts on the route, and you have to pull the crux moves before the first bolt. A small wire might be had in the left leaning crack, before the first bolt.

There is ground fall pontential when clipping the first 3 bolts, so this is a better TR than lead. Follow fun face/knobs climbing to the anchors on Blood Fingers.



Photos of New Toy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Bloody Fingers 2) New Toy 3) Twist and Crawl
BETA PHOTO: 1) Bloody Fingers 2) New Toy 3) Twist and Crawl

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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I counted five bolts, but that doesn't change the danger rating as what Guy said was correct, in the groundfall potential. A great long face route with some cool friction moves and the odd body postion move. We did it on TR, while waiting for Bloody Fingers to open never did and I ran out of time on this trip. Damn!!!!!
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

I led this route a few years ago, and I'm not sure I'd give it an X rating. I'm not usually that bold. I think solid R.
By powerandrubber
May 9, 2007

Agreed, definitly not X rated. Maybe R. The runouts would be average at Tuolumne or J Tree. Awesome route!
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

The crux in my opinion is after the first bolt making this route pretty safe and you would have to try pretty hard to fall off anywhere else. I think an R is reasonable but there is a chance of an X fall if you pitched off in the right spot.

You could say that about most routes though if you came off clipping the second bolt or piece of gear.

There are 4 bolts.
By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

Fun route.
By grk10vq
Jun 18, 2013

i see your point, but i really hope new toy remains in its current condition. its an exciting lead that tests your mental limits.
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Aug 9, 2014

Great old route. A Goodwin masterpiece. Crux is just above the first bolt. If you repetitively fall off this move, I would seriously consider not continuing on. If you flash this section, the rest of the unprotected climbing will be fine. It's good to have some old routes still around that you aspire to build up to with confidence.
By Jay Goodwin
Oct 2, 2017

I agree with the comments by RKM and Lucarelli. Route is old school and bold, but crux is protected from ground fall, and if you can onsite the crux, the runouts present only a mental challenge, not a technical one. Climb runs more or less straight from bolt to bolt. Meander all over between bolts to find easier climbing (I have seen people do this) and you risk ground falls (until you clip the third bolt) and serious injury.

Alternate direct start is up the thin flake that you can also use for an alternate start to Bloody Fingers. Takes a few very small wires or RPs, which are basically wishful thinking - they will almost certainly rip if you fall on them.

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