REI Community
Christian Brothers - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Choke On This S 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Deep Splash S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Fright Night S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 
La Shootist S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Lightsaber S 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Return of the Redeye S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That 10d S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

New Testament 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Fry, Larry Kemp, Feb. 1973
Page Views: 3,965
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (145)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Gotta Love Crack! Even if its awkward and sharp :)

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This right leaning crack has some awkward moves as it angles it's way up to the crux at the top finishing slot. Probably not a good route for someone just getting into leading 10a trad. Back in the 90's, a shaky climber fell at the crux, and ripped out enough of his gear to ground. Amazingly, he lived through it.


Just left of Barbecue The Pope and just right of the arete.


Gear to 3". Rap anchors. Note: Rock quality is fine but gear may not hold as well due to a lot of surface irregularities inside the crack.

Photos of New Testament Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yvonne on New Testament
Yvonne on New Testament
Rock Climbing Photo: New Testament Crack: Probably 10b with the full su...
New Testament Crack: Probably 10b with the full su...
Rock Climbing Photo: New Testament
New Testament
Rock Climbing Photo: stitched together and lost the rope.
stitched together and lost the rope.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brrrr, cold.
Brrrr, cold.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack on the left is New Testament, face to the ri...
Crack on the left is New Testament, face to the ri...

Comments on New Testament Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 20, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. The crack is better suited to hexes than cams... so if you have some, bring 'em.
By Skeates
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with the hexes over cams. The crack looks smaller than it is. Don't forget the medium hexes and take some time to put in a couple of bomber nuts before you pull up into the crux at the top (don't be tempted to use a micro-nut in the finger crack at the top - the last two people who did that and fell broke their leg and ankle respectively on a small ledge below the crux when there piece blew). A fun crack though, definitely worth doing!
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Jul 31, 2009

The middle section can take a lot of 3" cams.
By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009

I don't understand the gear warning. Gear is ample and A1 on this pitch.
By Phill T
Jun 18, 2012

if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Straightforward gear... Cams to 3 BD. and nuts... If you are concerned about the gear up high, place two nuts one on top of another.
By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Sep 17, 2012

The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Well-protectable, but kinda-generic 5.9 hand crack, to a couple sting-in-the-tail 5.10 moves. Worth a go if you're in the area and looking to climb at the grade.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About