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New Test Of Men 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson & Mark Rolofson, 9/16/2000
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Aug 10, 2008

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  • Description 

    This is the second to last route on the far right (uphill) on the N Face.

    P1. Climb past a bouldery 5.11 start followed by a juggy 10- corner. 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a slabby ledge.

    P2. Move up left through a bulge and the 11c/d crux, there is a good rest before the remaining 5.11 to the top. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

    I managed to lead this as one pitch but had a lot of rope drag at the top. 70m rope required to lower to the ground.


    Sport route with bolts.

    Comments on New Test Of Men Add Comment
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    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 22, 2008

    2.5 stars. The boulder problem start is much harder than anything on the 2nd pitch, definitely harder than 5.11. 2nd pitch is quite good, but expect rope drag if using standard length draws. There is one bolt that is too far to the left around a sharp arete that really adds to the rope drag.
    By Chris Plesko
    From: Westminster, CO
    Jul 14, 2012

    No warm up, and I still thought the lower boulder problem was no harder than 5.11, but I'm a strong crimper.
    By Jon Zucco
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 12, 2013

    I really don't think the start is any harder than .11a/b. It's just really f*cking awkward working through those first two bolts. I would recommend stick-clipping them; if you blew either of them, it could make for a pretty bad day.
    By Eric Carlos
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    Sep 6, 2013
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I felt the bottom was V2/3. Not a great warmup as the crux is off the ground.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 23, 2014
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I saw the bottom boulder problem done three different ways. The way I did it involved stemming, creative footwork, small crimps, and went no harder than V2. It was easy enough to clip the bolts. Overall, a really good route when the pitches are combined and a good second warm-up after Road to Emmaus. Use extended alpine draws or long runners on some of the bolts when linking up P1 & P2. Plenty of rope left with a 70. A 60 might just make it to the ground.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 23, 2017
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Certainly, a memorable route & one I have repeated several times since Alan & I made the first ascent on September 16, 2000. We originally rated it 5.12a, but I think it isn't quite that hard, & I call 5.11d. The moves past the 2nd & 3rd bolt on pitch 2 are the crux, but the redpoint crux is the finish. Lots of 5.11 climbing on pitch 2. I find it slightly more difficult than Elanor (which I have pretty wired). I would say they are the same grade.

    The moves at the start of pitch 1 have always felt like solid 5.11 & involve some awkward stemming. The first 2 bolts are close, & I don't remember thinking the clip to the 2nd bolt was a big deal.

    As for combining the two pitches into one, it isn't something I've ever done. The sloping ledge atop pitch 1 is a great rest. It is nice to have good communication with your partner on the 2nd pitch, so I would recommend doing the climb in two pitches.

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