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New Standards 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Phillip Fisher '89
Page Views: 860
Submitted By: Stephen Felker on Apr 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Second Overhang from the LSD anchors. New Standar...

Description 

The exposure and rather wild moves make up for the lack of length. It feels like you are hanging above 1000 feet of air. Start left on the rightward rising horizontal. Boulder (or campus) half a dozen moves right to a huge jug below the first bolt. Fire past the second bolt and top out.

Location 

Right of Stannard's Crack on the ledge below the second overhang.

Protection 

two bolts; no anchor; careful belay is advised


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By James Dowdy
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

V4+ boulder problem that begins high enough on the rock face that a rope is required - crazy, beautiful exposure!

Cool moves, although the crux requires a *wide* wingspan...you're likely to be shut down if you're shorter than approx 5' 8".

Probably only V1 or so after the first dozen feet.

Have fun!

Jim