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New Shatterhand 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Brock Landers
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: Marathon on Mar 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Stretching it out.

Description 

If your looking to add even more hard climbing to what was already a desperate crimpy pump fest, try New Shatterhand instead of the Old.

This direct start adds a plethora of rad holds to the fun.
More hard crimping down low, a desperate pinch, a crazy looking brain sloper and other cool embedded rocks, pockets and more great holds get you warmed up for the top.

This route has two distinct cruxes.

The mid way point crux will have you wishing you could lock off like John Brzenk in his heyday.

And of course the crux right at the end just waiting to spit you off.

When your eye level with the anchor and pumped out of your mind you'll be contemplating if you have the gumption to pull out a mouth full of slack to get the job done.

If you blow it trying to clip the anchor your going to catch some serious air.
But don't let that stop you, this new line makes an Old classic even better.

Location 

Next to Power Of Eating, on the right.
Look for the big sloper that looks like a brain 8ft up.

Protection 

fixed draws


Photos of New Shatterhand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mellow till the crux
Mellow till the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Micah looking like Brzenk on the opening moves.
Micah looking like Brzenk on the opening moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brzenk crushing
Brzenk crushing

Comments on New Shatterhand Add Comment
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By Micah Elconin
Oct 23, 2016

Those looking for a stepping stone to the full route will enjoy Power of Dieting (12b). Climb to the ledge just above low crux on New Shatterhand, traverse left to the huecos, and finish Power of Eating.
By Duke Lettieri
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 6, 2017

Don't do this:

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