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Muleshoe Canyon Tower
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New School Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Bucher, John Sevier, Drake Buckingham
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: paul bucher on Nov 11, 2013

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crux 2

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

really cool "easy" route with only a few moves at the grade. great route for the average joe breaking into desert towers. be sure not to miss the awesome cam placement in that pocket below the summit. so cool. great location. great views. a little runout, but not bad. very well protected.

Location 

the right side of the formation (as viewed from the south). bomber new bolt anchors

Protection 

2 quick draws, 1 #6 trango flex cam, 1 #7 trango flex cam, 1 optional #8 trango flex cam.


Photos of New School Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: john startin up
john startin up
Rock Climbing Photo: crux 1
crux 1
Rock Climbing Photo: New School Route
New School Route

Comments on New School Route Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
May 2, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

the approach is definitely the crux of this tower. the actual tower climbing is pretty brief and straight forward. makes for a nice easy day in a quiet area. thanks for putting it up. i brought a set of camalots from .5 to 4. i think i used a .5, a 2, and a 4 to position myself at the anchor (but mostly because i brought it). the bolts are good and protect the sandy slabby stuff well.

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