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New Saigon 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Paul Glover
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on May 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Steve Haston, New Saigon, a couple decades ago.

  • New Emergency Closure & Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a good route with a crux on pockets down low and another easier one up high.


    This route is located up the gully north and west from Power Bulge and can be located by the '80s ring bolts.


    Bolts, but at least one bolt is missing (the second bolt), and blowing the second clip would result in decking from a ways up. This route needs to be fixed and the route just to the right is completely unprotected now.

    Eds. This route was fixed by Matt (Samet?), the safety rating may have been significantly improved.

    Comments on New Saigon Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Haas
    Jun 23, 2008

    Thanks, Matt! You rock man! I love your enthusiasm for updating these routes, it's inspiring me to pick up the drill and replace more this summer instead of just climbing all the time. We still need to get out and climb together sometime.
    By Tzilla Rapdrilla
    Jun 27, 2008

    Matt, thanks for fixing the bolts up there & getting the route back into a condition that it can be done again. Having all of the routes in that vicinity in reasonable shape makes it more worthwhile to go up there. Hopefully I'll be recovered enough to make the walk back up there in the not too distant future and enjoy your hard work.
    By Hank Caylor
    From: Glenwood Springs, CO
    Dec 7, 2008

    FA is Paul Glover.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 15, 2015
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Nothing R rated about this at all. All bolts are in great condition. You get to the first ledge and can see holes of where old anchors used to be, but the route continues up past another bolt to another set of anchors. Is this a recent extension from when the bolts were updated? It doesn't match up with the guidebook description. Great route, felt the most difficult when compared to nearby Cardboard Cowboy and Back in Slacks.

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