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New River Gorge Homesick Blues 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Houck, 1991
Page Views: 3,013
Submitted By: Ryan Farris on Aug 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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BETA PHOTO: New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 5.10a. Kid's Climb...


This route is to the left of Kid's Climb. Follow the line up through the bolts to the anchors. Have fun!

Addendum: this route may have originally been intended to follow the bolt line making it probably 5.11. However, it is rather apparent that one can head left after the 2nd bolt to make it a moderate lead for most folks. Originally, the 2nd bolt was the 1st fixed gear on the route requiring some less-than-perfectly-solid gear placement and a bit more anxiety to starting the route.


This was updated to 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt was a bit off the ground, hence the "R" rating, now no longer an R. Bring a stickclip for safety.

Photos of New River Gorge Homesick Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Right off the deck on NRGHB.
Right off the deck on NRGHB.
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the crux and cruising to the anchor.
Past the crux and cruising to the anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: @ the cool undercling.
@ the cool undercling.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Nguyen Flashing NRG Homesick Blues.  Photo by...
Andy Nguyen Flashing NRG Homesick Blues. Photo by...

Comments on New River Gorge Homesick Blues Add Comment
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By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There seems to be a newer bolt before the original "1st bolt", and I don't believe the route now deserves an "R" rating.

Also, the crux is a very interesting sequence of moves that I look forward to doing again. Good route (by Table standards anyway).
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Jonathan rated NRGHB hardish 5.11 and it felt that way to me, way back. I'm guessing it is a good 5.9 by not cutting left. It is always interesting to see how others interpret beta. The nine plus way looks good too.

About the bolting. I do know this route was vandalized by The Man From S.C.A.R.E. I think the 1/2" Rawl, first bolt, is the fix for what was taken. The other three bolts all look like the work of the Plastic Prince. He loved overhangs and was not one to put in contrived runouts!
By jay baichi
Jan 26, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There are four bolts on this. It is very safe and fun.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Sep 28, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think this is one of the best 9s at the crag. It is certainly safe. There are good rests once you get through the roof, probably not what the FA intended, but if it's close enough to clip the bolts, IMO, the rest is on the route.

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