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New New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avalauncher TR 
Batshit Crack T,TR 
Beginner's T,TR 
Crap On T,TR 
Flare T,TR 
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 
Hard Crack T,TR 
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 
Phone Booth T,TR 
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 
Thumb Action T,TR 
Twin Cracks T,TR 
Unnamed T,TR 

New New Place Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8116, -106.1985 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,916
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 11, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Right side of the New New. My notes say the number...

Description 

New New Place is another one of White Rock's vertical basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall) and are quite good. Most climbs are characterized by short crux sections between good rest stances or ledges. The New New Place has more 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some other White Rock cliffs. A few good more challenging climbs are found here as well. People have been climbing here since Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s.

The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children.

An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime local climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so perhaps these are not the original route names, not that it matters.

Getting There 

Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations (Rover). Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south side of the cliff is easiest).

Climbing Season

For the White Rock area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in New New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New New Place:
Beginner's   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 40'   
Have a Nice Day Yucca   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Batshit Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New New Place

Featured Route For New New Place
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of Sharon's Sandbag and Sharon's lead.

Sharon's Sandbag 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : New New Place
Sharon's Sandbag is another standard-fare 5.9 White Rock crack. It seemed pretty reasonable for the grade, although leaders should be comfortable with smaller gear.Start just left of the graffiti. Climb up to a platform below an obvious finger crack.The finger crack opens in a few places, but generally you'll be crimping your way on small edges on either side. Mantel onto a 2nd platform 5' below the rim.Gear is nuts and TCUs, but there are occasional placements for thin-hands-size ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of New New Place Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" ...
BETA PHOTO: Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" ...

Comments on New New Place Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Sullivan
From: Durango, CO
May 31, 2017
The "tire art" has been removed from the canyon, so that's no longer a useful landmark. To find the top of the crag, walk east (diagonally left) from the cul-de-sac on a good trail for about 100 yards, then turn right onto another good trail for about 50 yards. You will find anchor bolts at the top of the cliffband on your left. Graffiti is visible on the boulders scattered at the base of the crag. Go a few yards further south to find a third-class scramble descent to talus that leads you to the base.

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