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Nautilus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Campsite Host Boulder 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
Captain Nemo T 
Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
Cornelius T 
Crankenstein T 
Cupcake T 
Deception T 
Deep Throat T 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 
Dual T 
Easy Jam T 
Ejector-Rejector TR 
Elevator T 
Escalator T 
Etude For The Left Hand TR 
Etude For The Right Hand S 
Failure to Communicate T 
Father 1 T 
Final Cut, The T,S 
Finally T 
Flare Thee Well T 
Flying Buttress T 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
I'm Spartacus T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Kiai T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Murphy's Law 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
New Mutant T 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space T 
Right Torpedo Tube T 
Right Winger T 
Shotgun Willy  
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer T 
Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver S 
Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Stranded at Sea T 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
TTL T 
TTR T,TR 
Twinkle Toes 
Unknown Crystal Slab 
Unknown Mantle 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
W.C. Fields T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 
Unsorted Routes:

New Mutant 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 1,877
Submitted By: honeyjacket on Mar 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Todd Skinner on New Mutant (5.12c), Vedauwoo Phot...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This thing is mean...VERY MEAN. If you're not very comfortable or don't enjoy flaring cracks, then keep going. This is one of the most flaring hard cracks I can think of in Vedauwoo, and it's awesome. Start with some easier and straightforward but still burly moves that make you think "Hey, this might not be that bad" and continue into thought provoking, crystal dancing and butthole clinching climbing that leads to a heartbreaking, mega-flare ending.

Actually, it's very fun and all in all very safe. The first half of the route protects very well where you need it, and the second half is a little tricky but in no way warrants a PG grade. If you're on this side of the Nautilus and looking for a good technical challenge, this is it.

Location 

Start 20 feet right of Ghost Dance.

Protection 

Bring your offset micro stoppers and small offset cams. Otherwise it's mainly finger and thin hand size pieces. Figuring out the protection is half the battle.


Photos of New Mutant Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The top.
The top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting pumped.
Getting pumped.
Rock Climbing Photo: Delicate....
Delicate....
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken battling the start.
BETA PHOTO: Ken battling the start.

Comments on New Mutant Add Comment
Show which comments
By honeyjacket
Mar 9, 2015

As of March 2015, the second half of this climb is mostly fixed (none of which was my doing) with microstoppers. They are more or less welded in there, and I have no idea how old they are, but I have fallen on all of them. You can get good alternative gear around it if you choose to do so.

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