REI Community
Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ajax T 
Birdie S 
Black September T 
Bliss T 
Bliss Direct T 
Blowups Happen T 
Bourbon Street T 
Can't Stop the Dance T 
Cannibal Gully T 
Centerfold T 
Don't Try This At Home S 
Empty Overgo T 
Empty Sky Direct T 
Finger Licker T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Full Moon T 
Full Tilt T 
Headstone T 
Hungover Hangover T 
Indian Summer T 
Inside Out  T 
Labyrinth T 
Lightning Bolt Roof T 
Mojito Run T 
Mr. Clean T 
New Fascination T 
New Moon T 
Next T,S 
No Stems No Seeds T 
On Ramp T 
One Hand Clapping T 
Pinball Junkie T,S 
Primer T 
Rat Ramp S 
Rat's Tooth T 
Rated X T 
Rythym Killer S 
Sky Pilot T 
Skywalker T 
Slipstream T 
Space Invaders S 
Space Modulator T 
Summer Breeze S 
Super Slab T 
There Goes The Neighborhood T 
Torture Chamber S 
Touch A Cannibal T 
Touch and Go T 
Yellow Zonker T 

New Moon 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,568
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Aug 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A great (better) approach to the Firecracker roof.

  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you jog out left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 15-20 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie into Firecracker.

    New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. A higher quality start to a classic finish instead of doinking around on more pedestrian climbing is also yielded. Beautiful rock either way. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking at the crux there, however.


    Just right of Firecracker on the ledge above and to the right of One Hand Clapping.


    Finger-sized cams - 3" or 4" Camalot. Very well protected with a standard rack that includes a few smaller pieces.

    Comments on New Moon Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Patrick Mulligan
    Apr 22, 2013

    I figured I would get on this as a way to avoid the wide crack on Firecracker (didn't have anything larger than a #2 camalot) and got the send. It not a gimme but I found it more technical than powerful.
    By Khick
    Oct 15, 2014

    Thought the roof was still harder than the widening jams. Really fun though!
    By Tahoe Matt
    From: Truckee
    Sep 3, 2015

    The .5 fingers is the real crux. No gear above a #2 is needed for the linkup. Try not to reach out left to keep it legit.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About