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Mammoth Crest
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New Model (No. 15) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Barry Hutton, 9/2001
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Sep 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

P1: 5.10b, climb an arching feature moving to the right up to a steeper face and anchor below a notch in the arete
P2: 5.10b, climb the exposed arete, then move left to the face and pull through some cracks and face moves
P3: 5.9, move past a bolt, into a corner, and finish up and left

Location 

Towards the left end of Mammoth Crest, in "Sector 5" of the Lewis and Moynier guidebook

Protection 

P1: 2 bolts, gear to 2"
P2: 5 bolts, gear to 2"
P3: 1 bolt, gear to 2"


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By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route, but I'd say a little hard for 10b. The first pitch crux layback is sustained for about 20 feet, and the foot holds are few and far between. My belayer noted a constant stream of dust coming down from the infrequently used smears. I think with some more traffic this climb would clean up a bit and probably get a little easier. The second pitch is great and certainly less sustained than the first, awesome moves on the arete.

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