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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

New Lease on Life 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Thompson, August 1998
Page Views: 3,224
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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  • Description 

    This is the second line from the left at the Riviera (another route not shown in the Boulder Canyon guide). Ascend a clean 30-foot face on good rock, then wander up the slab above (much easier climbing) for another 20 feet.

    It is 9+ if you take the easiest line; 10d to 11a if you climb straight up the bolts.

    Protection 

    6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. You may want a #1 Camalot or similar at the top if you're freaked by runouts on easy rock.


    Photos of New Lease on Life Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris leading New Lease on Life.
    Chris leading New Lease on Life.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route is on the right.
    The route is on the right.

    Comments on New Lease on Life Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    This route goes at either 10 or 11a, according to Rolofson.
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 15, 2001

    A little bit squeezed, although if you do remain stern and follow the bolt line directly the route has quite nice moves and I would give it a 10+ rating.
    By PATRICK THOMPSON
    Mar 26, 2002

    It is either 9+ on left or 10d on right. Enjoy!
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    May 19, 2003
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The path of least resistance felt to be 9 range. It is certainly not a 10 unless you really ignore a bunch of holds. I recall a brief traverse left near the 2nd bulge. It is easier than its 10a neighbor left.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 20, 2003

    New Lease on Life. FA: P. Thompson, 8/98.
    By Cody Harrington
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jul 11, 2014

    This route is in the new Boulder Canyon guidebook.
    By Dirk Diggler
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Dec 21, 2014

    Staying left makes this climb a lot easier. Direct felt about 10c.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 10, 2015
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Squeezed in between two adjacent routes and hard to avoid holds on these.
    By Mason Roberts
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 30, 2016

    This is a fun route. If you're leading, take a nut to hang on the third (maybe second?) bolt, which is missing it's hanger. You can see this from the ground. This makes the lead a little spicier, since you'll want to move up and left (just a tad) of the bolt to keep climbing. This will make the fall not directly down, making the nut wire seems less than ideal. (Edit: this has been fixed - there is a new hanger on the bolt, so there is no need for the wire trick.) However, the holds are solid, and you're never far from another bolt on this part of the wall.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Feb 20, 2017

    My buddy Dale Haas and I replaced the missing hanger on that bolt in June 2016.

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