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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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New Kids on the Block 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,562
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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New Kids on the Block

Description 

This teenage heartthrob of the late 1980s made many a 13-year old girl scream.

This is a good warm-up for the harder climbs to the left, and from the ledge at the top, you can set topropes on the next 3 climbs to the left.

Crimp and sidepull your way up to a 2-bolt anchor on a big ledge. It's fun climbing, with a few great pocket holds that turn out to be even better than they first appear that allow you to shake out.

A 4 bolt extension to this route called Inchworm Arete continues up the arete above this ledge to another 2-bolt anchor (5.8). You can climb this as 2 pitches, or as one long pitch (a 60m rope is long enough to reach all the way up and lower back to the ground). This extension isn't shown in the RC:NM guidebook.

Location 

The right-most route on Dirt Wall. Starts just left of a block.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge (shared with Little Caterpillar). Another 4 bolts if continuing up Inchworm Arete.


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By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
Jan 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The extension (or 2nd pitch if you break it up) is called "Inchworm Arete" 5.8/9, put up by Andy Mayer in October 1996. Nice exposure between bolts 2 and 3 beyond the New Kids ledge, a very cool section of climbing. Andy considered putting in two more bolts, one here and one before the anchor. He may have added those after the last time I climbed it (a long time ago) but didn't notate it if he did. The runouts didn't seem too bad.

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