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New Joe's

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Area 51 
Bone Garden 
Bridge Boulders 
Cable Grind Boulder 
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Playtime is Over, Space Chubby, Salsa Verde, The Edge 
Road Boulder 
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Tang Boulder 

New Joe's Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.30961, -111.11551 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 72,770
Administrators: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
This Afternoon

54° | 35°

46° | 31°

52° | 33°

57° | 37°

60° | 40°

61° | 42°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: that says it all


New Joe's is a hillside/canyon a few miles away from the Left and Right forks with a whole bunch of quality boulders. Area 51 is the most accessable and most popular area, but there is a lot more up there just a short walk away. Be sure to scope out Nerve Damage and Pocket Rocket.

Please please please: don't camp up at New Joe's. It's on private property (I'm assuming it's either the Texaco subsidiary or the coal mine), so treat it with respect.

Getting There 

Follow Route 29 out of Orangeville and take a right on Route 57 North. Follow this for 3.3 miles and take a right on a dirt road, just after a huge rock pile on the right. Follow this dirt road up to a large parking lot with an oil rig in the middle. The trail up to the various areas starts at the back of the parking lot by the sign.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.3 miles from here

108 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',46],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in New Joe's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New Joe's:
Desperado   V1 5     Boulder   The Closet
Warm Me Up, Scotty   V1 5     Boulder   Area 51
Desperate   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Closet
Scary   V3 6A     Boulder, 20'   Area 51
Super Sloper   V3 6A     Boulder   Area 51
Joe Cool   V3 6A R     Boulder, 20'   Area 51
Bad Genes   V3 6A     Boulder   The Closet
Pimpn' Jeans   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   The Closet
Self Service   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Self Service
Stumblebum Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder   Area 51
Reading Rainbow   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   The Closet
Contact   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   88+
Roll the Dice   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   The Closet
Pocket Rocket   V6- 7A     Boulder   Anarchy
I'd Rather Be Climbing Her   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Limbo and Tsunami
Planet of the Apes   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Chip and Dale
Chips   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Chip and Dale
Big Boy   V7 7A+     Boulder   Area 51
Stand Up   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Area 51
Resident Evil   V10- 7C+     Boulder   Area 51
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New Joe's

Featured Route For New Joe's
Rock Climbing Photo: The first move of I'd Rather Be Climbing Her.

I'd Rather Be Climbing Her V6 7A  Utah : Joe's Valley : ... : Limbo and Tsunami
Begin matched on good edges and make a big move out left to a juggy rail. Match the rail and locate a two finger pocket for your left hand. From the pocket, finish up the steep prow moving slightly left to topout. Ultra classic!!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of New Joe's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: so fun
so fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising through New Joe's in the bug.
Cruising through New Joe's in the bug.
Rock Climbing Photo: v8
Rock Climbing Photo: nate brun v8 by new joes
nate brun v8 by new joes
Rock Climbing Photo: big one by new joes
big one by new joes
Rock Climbing Photo: new joes
new joes
Rock Climbing Photo: MK at New Joe's
MK at New Joe's
Rock Climbing Photo: new boulder by new joes
BETA PHOTO: new boulder by new joes
Rock Climbing Photo: NEW JOES ...

Comments on New Joe's Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 8, 2009
The Dirt road is now gated, and locked due to spraypainters.....Seek alt. approach....Not sure if it should be posted how to get there now.
By Hoez
From: Uganda
Mar 18, 2010
bullshit - total bs. I really hope that the spraypainters werent climbers as well... thats all we need; one dickweeds ignorance and lack of respect could get the entire place shut down. the gate was locked last time i was down there as well...

and I agree. with gaar

the alt. approach shouldnt be posted in my opinion.
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 18, 2010
The dirt road is gated because of repeated vandalism of the gas derrick in the parking lot.

Just use the alternate approach, why should it not be published? You can clearly see the boulders from the road and can simply straightline your way from a pullout above the locked gate - it sucks though and will cause erosion. Just use the coal road.
By grandpapi
Aug 17, 2014
We were in joe's valley this weekend and climbed in left and right fork, but never found new joes. We follwed the directions and found the dirt road which had a information board that said attention climbers. We drove up the dirt road for about 2 miles and it started to get really sketchy so we turned around. We saw the oil crane far off into the distance and estimated that it would take us an hour of driving on the dirt road at that rate. Is this correct? Approximately how long is the dirt road?
By WAGbag
From: Denver, CO
Nov 30, 2014
Update to this area and getting there:
Follow Route 29 out of Orangeville and take a right on Route 57 North. Follow this for 3.3 miles and you will see a dirt road on the right with a latrine and some climbers information, both supplied by Salt Lake Climbers Association (thank you). Taking the dirt road brings you to a tilled-up clearing where the derrick used to be. There is limited parking up here and the road is just barely ok for a subaru. Most people go an additional 0.9 miles up the paved road and park on the right with the obvious trail leading to the boulders. This land is no longer leased by the oil company and is open land again as far as I understand (and according to ownership maps which show it partly on public, state or forest service land).

Edit: since I've last visited SLCA has posted more recent information in the comments to the main page for Joe's. See updates and their maps of ownership there.
By Kate Zimm
From: Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2015
Lost a single women's Scarpa Techo climbing shoe here on 11/26. Lost somewhere between Road Boulder and Chips or possibly near Contact boulder. If you find it please PM me! Thanks!
By Florence Aza-Selinger
Aug 25, 2016
Gate to the road was definitely locked.
By e.s
From: Champaign, Illinois
Sep 4, 2016
Climbed here on 8/29-30. It's a bit of a pain to find, but not locked off. I included a lil map to show how to get there. Just follow the path marked in orange. The parking lot is in green (and has no oil pump). I would recommend a spotter for the off-road drive, unless you have a high clearance car. We made it in a 2000 Dodge Neon, so it's definitely accessible. Grading is soft and the sandstone is very forgiving.
Rock Climbing Photo: Satellite of New Joe's
Satellite of New Joe's

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