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May 24, 2016
When I started climbing I bought a black diamond momentum. However they jus tossed it at me with a "here you go" and sold me one a bit to small. I'm ready to buy a new harness and need some advice.

I want to concentrate more on Trad but I tend to climb more often on TR or in gyms, and I'm looking for under $100.

Recommendations???
Ben Ambrose
Joined Apr 25, 2016
0 points
May 24, 2016
If you are going to use it in the gym and for trad, don't get a trad specific harness with extra gear loops. Just get something that is relatively comfortable to hang in and has 4 gear loops. Pay attention to the gear loop location too if you get something with a single belt buckle. For Black Diamond and Petzl, the harness needs to be completely tightened for the gear loops to be centered on your hips. Mammut's loops are centered somewhere in the middle of the belt range. If the loops end up too far off center when the belt is snug around your waist, at least one of them will be harder to reach. Maybe I'm just OCD but it drove me nuts on my old harness. Also, adjustable leg loops are nice and gear loops that lay flat in the back (like the Petzl Sama) suck balls. Seth Jones
From New Lenox, IL
Joined Feb 17, 2015
5 points
May 24, 2016
Misty Mountain Turbo. Hands down the best all around harness on the market, and made in NC. Get a Cadillac if you want a little more comfort, but the Turbo is pretty plush. I know that's at or above your budget, but it's worth it Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
740 points
May 24, 2016
I found the sizing to be weird on the Misty Mountain harnesses. I know alot of people love them but I thought the Cadillac was really uncomfortable and I'm not even sure that a custom build would have fixed the issue. Seth Jones
From New Lenox, IL
Joined Feb 17, 2015
5 points
May 24, 2016
I just got a Turbo a little while ago. I've yet to try it out but I bought it to be my all-around harness for everything but multi pitch. It's constructed as would be expected for a MM. You may oray not like fixed leg loops, but they have other options for just under $100 that'd do what you want. Mathias
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jun 4, 2014
110 points
May 24, 2016
I bought a turbo based on the misty size chart and it didn't work for me at all. When cinched down it was all cockeyed. The harness was fine but it just didn't fit me, sold it and got a much better fitting one. I'd try something on if possible. If you're kind of on the cusp of sizes it can be a challenge to find one that fits well. I've got a 33" waist which puts me on the border of M and L in a lot of brands.

Not a knock on misty at all, but I wouldn't mail order a harness again that I couldn't easily return after trying it on.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,415 points
May 24, 2016
Misty Mountain has and will continue to be the only harness brand I wear.
13 years of climbing has lead me to use multiple models and each has worn incredibly well; they have provided me the highest level of comfort for their entire life of use. I have demo'd every brand (at gyms/crags/Trade Show) and not one compared when taking a whipper to sitting at a belay on the sharp-end.
Nicholas Oxentenko
Joined Sep 19, 2009
0 points
May 24, 2016
I'm a 31, I wear a large so it's cinched all the way down. Could use medium leg loops, but I'm fine with them being loose Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
740 points
May 24, 2016
I don't like harnesses where they are cinched all the way down on the waist, usually puts the gear loops too far forward so when you lift a leg gear spills into your crotch. The Misty L was lopsided on me too, couldn't get the tie ins to line up so the belay loop was cockeyed and the harness was crooked on me.

All that said, it was a fit issue and I know lots of climbers who love it. Just didn't fit me.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,415 points
May 24, 2016
I had a misty mountain turbo and used the hell out of it for years. Durable, but Not very comfortable for me (totally non breathable, and it's support is just 1 inch webbing underneath all the padding) My vote goes to the edelrid Cyrus or Orion, most comfortable harness I've ever used. Daniel Chambo
From Carrboro, North Carolina
Joined Nov 21, 2013
10 points
May 24, 2016
I got a BD Solution a couple months ago and it's fantastic for the gym. I find it comfortable to hang in and I'm nearly 200 pounds. Full price is $70, and it's on sale lots of places right now. Noah Yetter
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2015
10 points
May 24, 2016
I've always enjoyed my Metolius Safe Tech trad harness. Lightweight, supportive, locking speed buckles and it's at a good price point. Tapawingo Markey
Joined Feb 1, 2012
0 points
May 24, 2016
I would check out the Metolius safe tech if you're looking to go under $100. I love my Misty, but they are pricey. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
40 points
May 24, 2016
Misty Barrett Pauer
From Brevard, NC
Joined Apr 9, 2013
225 points
May 24, 2016
Why change at all - just get one that fits? The momentum is an all around harness. It's not super comfortable to hang in very long, but if you are just getting into trad, why spend all that money on a huge harness? The momentum fits a single rack easily with room for a few doubles and your approach shoes. Any all around harness will work fine, and be cheaper than a specialized harness.

Just find a brand who's sizing fits you and stick with it. BD fits me really well, so I stick with them. The Chaos is like more comfy momentum.
Jack Servedio
From Raleigh,NC
Joined Feb 28, 2016
10 points
May 24, 2016
I'm using the Mammut Togir and really liking it. Both Edelrid and Mammut have harnesses with a molded plastic reinforcement at the lower leg loop tie in point. I'm attracted to the durability and the light weight. It's cheap too.
I've had Arc'teryx harnesses in the past, but the last one wore out too quickly at the tie point, particularly given the price.
Victor K
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2003
135 points
May 24, 2016
Whatever fits you the best. Doesn't matter fuck all about brand unless you are very specific on a feature (like an ultra light trad harness -> arcteryx) NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
55 points


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