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Mar 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Petzl grigri 2 and Black Diamond lock carabiners, tomorrow I will try them for the first time on top rope, wath you guys thinking about them?
Rock Climbing Photo: Grigri 2 and Black Diamond lock carabiners..
Grigri 2 and Black Diamond lock carabiners..
Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 23, 2016
TR self belay? Grigri is a lousy self belay device IMO (rarely self feeds). Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,648 points
Mar 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Well I just pull the slack line wile I'm climbing on and if you fall the grigri will catch you,is it correct? Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 23, 2016
don't forget backup knots :-) Tapas
From Utah
Joined Feb 8, 2010
120 points
Mar 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
This recent thread has a variety of info you may be looking for:

mountainproject.com/v/self-bel...
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Mar 23, 2016
Walter Galli wrote:
Well I just pull the slack line wile I'm climbing on and if you fall the grigri will catch you,is it correct?


That's the plan. But there's a reason the manufacturer tells you not to take your brake hand off the rope.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,648 points
Mar 23, 2016
I wouldn't recommend the BD Rocklock as a carabiner for self-belay using a grigri2. Too big, too easy to crossload. Screwgates are a big no-no for any kind of self-belay scenario as well. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Mar 23, 2016
John Wilder wrote:
Screwgates are a big no-no for any kind of self-belay scenario as well.


Curious to know why?
ScottJM
From Montana
Joined Dec 31, 2015
3 points
Mar 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...
John Wilder wrote:
Screwgates are a big no-no for any kind of self-belay scenario as well.


Also interested in this. I route set with a GriGri and always swap out the auto-locker for a screw gate. Why? Because the rope rubbing next to the autolock has caused it to unlock. I haven't had this happen on a screw gate to date.
Charlie S
From Ogden, UT
Joined Aug 23, 2007
1,509 points
Mar 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Yes Charly that is why I chose a screw gate, alwayse on my harness I put a screwgate and in any circumstances that is not required an autolocker. Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: N Seoul Tower
In the military, we rappel from a single locker. You have to be sure the rope runs through the locker in a way that TIGHTENS, not LOOSENS the screwgate. trentbrown
From Seoul, Korea
Joined May 23, 2015
61 points
Mar 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
trentbrown wrote:
In the military, we rappel from a single locker. You have to be sure the rope runs through the locker in a way that TIGHTENS, not LOOSENS the screwgate.

This is basic for climbing.. For sure.
Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 24, 2016
Hi walter, great post. let us no how it goes pizza.eater
Joined Mar 10, 2013
5 points
Mar 24, 2016
ScottJM wrote:
Curious to know why?


I may be wrong, but I believe it has something to do with the constant rope feed possibly unscrewing the screwgate if the biner gets oriented in a certain way.
Quinn Baker
Joined Mar 2, 2016
0 points
Mar 24, 2016
Might not be exactly pertinent or appreciated in this thread but my favorite carabiner for self-belay (in my case, top rope soloing with two micro trax) is the DMM Belay Master. The cross piece efficiently prevents cross loading and covers the screwgate to prevent unscrewing from the rope (which I hadn't considered before).

However, most important thing for me is the cross piece entirely covers the screw gate and prevents the device from sliding over it, getting caught and loaded from the side. For the micro trax, this will bend the side plate even under low loads, which in my experience is the most obvious way for it to fail. It is easy to see the side plate start to bend under body weight. The point is that I am not worried about cross loading the biner...I AM worried about cross loading the device.
Xam
From Boulder, Co
Joined Dec 6, 2011
48 points
Mar 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: N Seoul Tower
Walter Galli wrote:
This is basic for climbing.. For sure.


Quinn Baker wrote:
I may be wrong, but I believe it has something to do with the constant rope feed possibly unscrewing the screwgate if the biner gets oriented in a certain way.


This is the only reason I can guess why screwgates are such a no-no. We use them extensively in the military. I trust them and I fully support you Walter in your use of screwgates for your purposes. I solo-toprope with a microcender, grigri2, and screwgates on both.

On the other hand, I would like to know more about why they are so bad in a self-belay scenario. If anyone could shed some light on it, I for one, would be grateful. Its always good to learn.
trentbrown
From Seoul, Korea
Joined May 23, 2015
61 points
Mar 25, 2016
Most devices (Grigri etc) tend to slide into a cross-loaded position as you move which could be expected to break or damage something. I use a rubber band to centre my GriGri on the karabiner or if I´m lead soloing a maillon anyway. Jim Titt
From Germany
Joined Nov 10, 2009
365 points
Mar 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Jim Titt wrote:
Most devices (Grigri etc) tend to slide into a cross-loaded position as you move which could be expected to break or damage something. I use a rubber band to centre my GriGri on the karabiner or if I´m lead soloing a maillon anyway.

I like the idea of the rubber band to keep it in position,,,I will try this,
Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 25, 2016
walter - This topic has been covered so much, and you are off the mark on how to set up a self-belay TR. Many people do it many ways, but I trust the Petzl suggestion more than any wanker on the internet (which would include me in this post)

Anyway, check out these series of webpages from Petzl and decide for yourself.

petzl.com/US/EN/Sport/General-...

For ~$170, you'll have a microcender and a minitraxion, and a system that is well tested.

Even still, it seems like most people bite the dust because they made some mistake at the transition.
JohnnyG
Joined Nov 30, 2009
33 points
Mar 25, 2016
JohnnyG wrote:
walter - This topic has been covered so much, and you are off the mark on how to set up a self-belay TR. Many people do it many ways, but I trust the Petzl suggestion more than any wanker on the internet (which would include me in this post)


All those wankers who are bolting routes all around the world while hanging hands free on grigris not to mention all those gym route setters doing the same with plastic and grigris. Wankers, all of them!
T Roper
From DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,053 points
Mar 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Ok guys I know that all of you are pro compare to me, but I love simple things and here are the pics of my set up, I use it this morning in my woody and I try to fall at least 50 times not once my grigri went wrong is actually not even a fall because I pull the slack wile I'm climbing up, so wath it does is just stopping me to fall and you can stay hand free on it, but for sure the set up working only for topmrope as my concern, is the safest way of doing solo top rope, check the pics, cheers..
Rock Climbing Photo: Self belay with a grigri2
Self belay with a grigri2


Rock Climbing Photo: Grigri self belay top rope
Grigri self belay top rope
Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 25, 2016
That works but it's a lot more streamlined to fix the line and just run the gri gri on it. Tie a couple pounds to the bottom and it nearly feeds itself. Either setup really ought to have a back up though, even something as simple as a second fixed line with a few loops in it that you could clip a tether to. Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
258 points
Mar 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: fixin' to descend


Top rope solo belay should be hands free and redundant.

Walter, your gri gri setup is neither. In fact, for every vertical meter you climb, you'll have to pull two meters of rope through your belay device. And the unattended gri gri can fail.

I probably have over a thousand pitches on the setup above (or similar). More info here: mountainproject.com/v/11110239...
Stephen Felker
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 30, 2009
513 points
Mar 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
I like the set up you showing, that way you are not pulling any line? You just climb? This will be wath I dream for, guys just to let everyone know I have no partner here in the island of Sint Marteen so I have to go alone all the times and I'm just looking for a safe way to do so, this one is definally an interesting sistem.. cheers.. Walter Galli
From Sint Maarten
Joined Sep 2, 2015
1,482 points
Mar 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Stephen's photo above is fantastic. That has really become the standard set up for toprope self belay.

Sorry you dropped coin on the Cinch, not sure if the rope will feed freely through that on self belay. You should buy either the Kong Ducks or Petzl Rescuscender (That is the top device in the above picture.) I additionally tie a backup knot once I am 10-15 feet off the ground.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points
Mar 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: fixin' to descend
Walter Galli wrote:
I like the set up you showing, that way you are not pulling any line? You just climb? This will be wath I dream for, guys just to let everyone know I have no partner here in the island of Sint Marteen so I have to go alone all the times and I'm just looking for a safe way to do so, this one is definally an interesting sistem.. cheers..


You just climb! I usually lightly weight the bottom of the fixed line with a few coils of rope (or a water bottle, biners, etc.) so that it requires no manual feeding as soon as I step off of the ground. The weight of the fixed line below you eventually becomes enough.

The crux of this system is knowing how to transition back to a gri gri (or other device) for the descent while hanging. That is one reason why extending the primary device is key.
Stephen Felker
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 30, 2009
513 points


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