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New Fangled Dangle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: Sam Stephens on Jan 26, 2010  with updates from Kevin Umbel

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New Fangled Dangle's start is INTENSE! Offwidth st...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Acute dihedral that starts from low roof. Start is wide and burly. The route arches up and left through the gorgeous dihedral. Anchors were recently added.

Location 

Right before you turn the corner to the Undeserved area. It's easy to walk by but once you see it you won't ever miss it again.

Protection 

Small to medium sized cams, optional #6 for the bottom moves. Bolted anchor.


Photos of New Fangled Dangle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Staring at the bottom of the route in the rain
Staring at the bottom of the route in the rain

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By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Feb 20, 2017

Welp, hot damn the start of this thing was like getting covered in honey then turning around to see a grizzly bear licking it lips. You get up to run away but you trip and fall into a fire-ant mound.

You might not be enjoying everything in the moment, but if you get out alive you have a story to tell and you wouldn't change a thing.

This is very protect-able, find the hidden number two in the back for the start. Fist-jam and levitate. I went left to the crimps and armbars, apparently you can do it going right, too. Got my got foot stuck for a couple minutes, contemplated trying to take my shoe off and attempting to finish the climb before it popped out. Also I was very happy, I didn't eat before this or else it would have turned into slimy offwidth.

Once, I returned to consciousness and made it to the stance 15ft up. I looked up and saw this beautiful arching crack that just ate up finger sized cams.

A good thrutch is needed for a healthy lifestyle.

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