|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981|
|Submitted By:||Sam Stephens on Jan 26, 2010 with updates from Kevin Umbel|
|Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on New Fangled Dangle||Add Comment|
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By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
10 hours ago
Welp, hot damn the start of this thing was like getting covered in honey then turning around to see a grizzly bear licking it lips. You get up to run away but you trip and fall into a fire-ant mound.
You might not be enjoying everything in the moment, but if you get out alive you have a story to tell and you wouldn't change a thing.
This is very protect-able, find the hidden number two in the back for the start. Fist-jam and levitate. I went left to the crimps and armbars, apparently you can do it going right, too. Got my got foot stuck for a couple minutes, contemplated trying to take my shoe off and attempting to finish the climb before it popped out. Also I was very happy, I didn't eat before this or else it would have turned into slimy offwidth.
Once, I returned to consciousness and made it to the stance 15ft up. I looked up and saw this beautiful arching crack that just ate up finger sized cams.
A good thrutch is needed for a healthy lifestyle.