Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
New Buck

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autopilot T,TR 
Buck Hunter S 
Devil Wears Prana T,S,TR 
Fawn Crack T,S 
High-Rise Tightie Whities S,TR 
J. D. Memorial Route S 
Low-Rise Thong T 
Pick Pocket T 
Team Rocksport T,TR 
Ten Point Buck T,S 
Thin Soles T 
Tuesday Layback T,TR 
Wednesday Wisecrack T 
Welcome Matt T,S,TR 

New Buck Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.49929, -73.59952 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,073
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jaysen Henderson on Jul 20, 2011
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This cliff is great for having many moderates close together, with a few short lines that pack a punch. A great season opener for the volume of climbing you can get in within a day. Although the cliff is a mere 60 feet tall, the rock quality is good and climbing fun. This area is mostly concealed by the tree line and can get buggy.

Getting There 

approach 40 mins moderate. From NY 149 turn left onto buttermilk falls road and drive 6.4 miles to a small dirt pullof with a trail that once entered has a sign in box for lower hogtown trailhead. Stay left at the fork 5 mins in, follow blue markers to beaver pond (25mins) hike until you hit a cairn at 30 mins and take the herd path off right to the marsh to which you will be able to see the cliff through the trees.40 mins

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.4 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in New Buck

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New Buck:
Ten Point Buck   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Devil Wears Prana   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New Buck

Featured Route For New Buck
Rock Climbing Photo: Happy in the corner after the balancey crux.

Low-Rise Thong 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NY : Adirondacks : ... : New Buck
Identified as the right-facing corner (that starts a couple bodylengths up) just R of Autopilot. Getting into the corner is the crux. The 8+ direct start was too mossy, even on the very dry day we were there, to consider....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of New Buck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Garnet crystals
Garnet crystals
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice on 1/29/2012
Ice on 1/29/2012

Comments on New Buck Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Feb 28, 2013
New buck is harder than you think to find. I always think in retrospect that it was not worth the walk but I have found myself here at least 3 times and already justifying the next visit as "well we have been there in forever". Climbing here is mostly slabby with a few cracks and harder variations, and just to reinforce its located just above a swamp a fairly big swamp, think bugs and wet feet early season.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 9, 2013
There's a lot of climbing here and it can easily fill up a day. Check in the ADK Rock climbing guide and on the adirondackrock.com website for new routes. I went this past weekend and usually go in the Spring, going in the late summer is MUCH better in terms of bugs and mud. Unfortunately our group did get attacked by yellow jackets as we were approaching 100 yards from the cliff. The 5.6 routes are good for the grade.