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New Brunswick

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New Brunswick Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.4486, -66.308 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that insipid characteristic, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South of the province.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.

Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice small sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very special rock.

Utopia area has a huge granite overhang currently undevelopped that will probably boast NB's first 5.14's...

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.

Getting There 

New Brunswick is South of Gaspésie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.

All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.

Climbing Season

Weather station 21.4 miles from here

365 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',41],['3 Stars',136],['2 Stars',120],['1 Star',57],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in New Brunswick

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New Brunswick:
Chubby Girls Wearing Shower Curtains   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 60'   Cedar point
Follow the White Rabbit   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   McQuirks Mountain
I'm Too Drunk For This   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   McQuirks Mountain
Stairway to Heaven   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 90'   Sunnyside : Atomic Wall
Magic X   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   McQuirks Mountain
Neutral Tribe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   McQuirks Mountain
Torpedoes and Jellyfish   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Cedar point
Fifty Mission Cap   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   McQuirks Mountain
Combat Math   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   McQuirks Mountain
Cornifluge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Mount Douglas-East Face : Main Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New Brunswick

Featured Route For New Brunswick
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd route from the right

Sinusoidal Triverse 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Limestone Wall
2nd route from the right and one of my personal favourites. a long runout on easy terrain will gain you the first bolt. from here, climb up and right onto a slab to clip the second bolt. here's the fun part, fight the urge to go straight up as it is much harder and leads to crappy rock. instead, traverse down and right (crux) to gain the third bolt and climb straight up from here. shares an anchor with The Little Pigs....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of New Brunswick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the parking spot at C-lane, with the cliffs in the...
the parking spot at C-lane, with the cliffs in the...

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