||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
|Original: ||WI5- M6 [details]|
|FA: ||Dale Remsberg and Eli Helmuth|
|Season: ||Oct on|
|Page Views: ||3,444|
|Submitted By: ||Dale Remsberg on Nov 21, 2003|
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The ice portion of this route is probably not new as it would form all the way in fat years. But a great alterative to the common lean years is this mixed start "New Beginnings". The route is down and right from the Guide's Wall and is the first main ice curtain. This mixed variation takes the slight ramp up to the curtain. It is vertical to slightly overhung near the ice and climbing is never [desperate] and the gear good. The route is about 20 meters tall with the mixed and ice split perfectly in half. V thread for descent or walk off (did not try the walk off option).
Ice srews, small cams including 00 TCU up to 0.5 Camalot, including double yellow TCU size. Also a small assortment of nuts. We left a bomber pin that I placed on lead and no other pins should be needed. The gear is good on this route.
By Fremont Shields
Dec 22, 2003
Dale's gear & description is right on. As of this writing someone had left a great lowering anchor from a sturdy tree about 15 feet beyond where the ice ends. One 50M rope will reach the ground from here.Current conditions are same as the picture 11/23. Personally, I found it difficult to get securely established on the ice (no pre-made pick holes + brittle ice = pumped stooopid). This is a great route, comparable in quality (but a tad harder) to mixed emotions when it is well formed. Well-protected with natural gear.