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New Beginnings  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & J. Young, 3/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,851
Submitted By: Monty on May 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Past the 3rd bolt and into the trad lands.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, then follow a few more bolts up the overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left and finish. PUMPY!


This route is the lowest of the steep routes in the Dungeon. It is located just downhill of Soaked in Sin.


9 bolts, single rack cams from 0.4 - #2.

Photos of New Beginnings Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of New Beginnings, this is where you ...
Near the top of New Beginnings, this is where you ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route. Updated 4/11/2016
BETA PHOTO: The route. Updated 4/11/2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past 2nd bolt on New Beginnings.
Just past 2nd bolt on New Beginnings.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the 2nd bolt of New Beginnings.
At the 2nd bolt of New Beginnings.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the steep corner.
In the steep corner.

Comments on New Beginnings Add Comment
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By Pinklebear
Jul 7, 2013

Kinda spicy to lead from the ground, especially getting to the last bolt with some hidden gear right before it. Possible Spoiler Alert, so don't read on if you're going for the super-pür onsight, but I think having some gear beta (or another bolt or two?) will make this a more manageable lead.

Good stopper above bolt three, kinda punchy above bolt four up to where, from the rounded jug up and left, I placed two Metolius #3 (orange) TCUs, bomber #2 Camalot in the base of the steep crack, #1 Camalot above it if you want, fixed nut (seems to be in place for lowering and cleaning) that you can back up with another medium nut at the top of the crack.

Hand-traverse left and make committing 5.11- moves up into the bulges, then bomber Metolius #0 and #1 TCUs in a small hidden horizontal by the initially freaky-looking (but solid) jug block, then up on good holds to the last bolt (pumpy).

Good stuff, but gear is inobvious coming from the ground. Bring your A Game!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 26, 2013

Thanks for the gear beta, Pinkly. I'll add my own onsight spoilers...

Good red Alien and yellow Alien where Matt got the #3 Metolius, and black and blue Alien where Matt got the #0 and #1 TCUs. A right kneebar pad would get you a no hands rest at a tricky spot. The lead seemed reasonable with this gear, but you don't want to blow it at at least two spots. Stuff was still coming off when I climbed it, but it should be cleaning up....

Fun climbing!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 10, 2016

This route now has 9 bolts (used to have 5). Some gear is still needed between the 3rd and 4th bolt (large nut or .75 BD) as well as for the steep crack toward the top which takes anything from nuts to a #2. The route is much safer and more enjoyable now.

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