REI Community
The Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Begin Again S 
Blonde Ambition S 
Cornered Rats S 
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 
Dressed to Drill S 
Drill at Will S 
Gastonian, The S 
Imposed, The S 
Little Secrets S 
Man Chowder S 
Metamorphosis S 
New Beginning S 
No Turning Back S 
Outta The Chute S 
Starting Blocks S 

New Beginning 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 818
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


New Beginning starts immediately to the right of NTB. The route launches up in a right-leaning almost horizontal seam with 5.12 moves right off the deck. Head for the right end of the seam, and then zig back left for a complex series of finger crimps to very (!) long reaches. This comprises at least three or four back to back 5.12 moves. However, once you get stood up above the finger crimps, the climbing backs off to 5.11+. New Beginning ticks in a tad less difficult than NTB, but only by a hair.

This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.


QDs only. Like most of the routes on the upper tier of The Red Wall, this one is close to 90 feet long and needs about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Comments on New Beginning Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 26, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Hangers replaced with ClimbTech hangers 2016. This route has good rock overall and just one or two crunchy holds.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About