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New Beginning starts immediately to the right of NTB
. The route launches up in a right-leaning almost horizontal seam with 5.12 moves right off the deck. Head for the right end of the seam, and then zig back left for a complex series of finger crimps to very (!) long reaches. This comprises at least three or four back to back 5.12 moves. However, once you get stood up above the finger crimps, the climbing backs off to 5.11+. New Beginning ticks in a tad less difficult than NTB
, but only by a hair.
This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.
QDs only. Like most of the routes on the upper tier of The Red Wall, this one is close to 90 feet long and needs about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 26, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hangers replaced with ClimbTech hangers 2016. This route has good rock overall and just one or two crunchy holds.