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The Black Boulder
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Nevermore 

Nevermore 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ R

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ R [details]
FA: Will Anglin
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Trycycle on Apr 11, 2016

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Will Anglin on the first ascent of "Nevermore...

Description 

Start standing with a small gaston crimp for the right hand and a small left hand crimp. There are two left hand start hold options, but they don't change the move. Use what you want.

Go straight up to a jug, and then go right and up to the lip. A couple fairly hard moves at the lip will traverse you to the right so you can mantel the lip on pretty good holds.

My preliminary thought is V10, but I would believe hard V9, maybe. The scare factor is hard to ignore.

Protection 

The landing is quite bad. When you fall, you hit a very steep boulder then slide and hopefully run into the "backstop" instead of tumbling down the hill and off a small cliff. I'd recommend running two ropes down from the top of the boulder - one to suspend pads along the steep landing boulder and one to rope in a spotter.


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