Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Will Anglin on the first ascent of "Nevermore...
Start standing with a small gaston crimp for the right hand and a small left hand crimp. There are two left hand start hold options, but they don't change the move. Use what you want.
Go straight up to a jug, and then go right and up to the lip. A couple fairly hard moves at the lip will traverse you to the right so you can mantel the lip on pretty good holds.
My preliminary thought is V10, but I would believe hard V9, maybe. The scare factor is hard to ignore.
The landing is quite bad. When you fall, you hit a very steep boulder then slide and hopefully run into the "backstop" instead of tumbling down the hill and off a small cliff. I'd recommend running two ropes down from the top of the boulder - one to suspend pads along the steep landing boulder and one to rope in a spotter.