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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Never Say Never T,TR 
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Nevermore 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Rich Ross
Page Views: 1,127
Submitted By: lucander on Feb 8, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Nevermore (5.10b)

Description 

Start at Triangle.

Climb up 10-15', then make a heady traverse right to a stance. Continue up the face following a left-facing corner system. Stuff the vertical crack with pro and make a hard move. With gear at your feet, make another difficult move (reach) to a horizontal, then traverse right to a stance (whew). Delicately move up by stepping on the precarious block and then over to the Never Never Land bolted anchors.

Protection 

purple c3 to 2 or 3"


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By SethG
Oct 10, 2016

Great description, lucander-- this was exactly my experience leading Nevermore. Looking at your photo, I'm surprised you didn't place any gear before the 5.8 moves! I knew that the pro I placed on the Triangle would ensure that, if I fell, I would hit the Triangle blocks; but at least I wouldn't go straight to the ground.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 11, 2016

SethG - I used to be solid or bold or young back when that picture was taken. Nowadays I drop a small piece in on the Triangle block before cutting right across that scary face.

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