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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb - 70s
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Elyse getting funky on the follow


This is a cool route with some funky movement. Looking at it you would think it was much harder than it is. The opening chimney involves a variety of jamming and stemming techniques. The hand crack above is for the most part solid and well-protected, with some more tricky moves up high. While not terribly difficult, the route definitely makes you have to think outside the box.


On the way into the North End, in the same little grotto where Indian Head Direct starts, directly across from it.


Cams up to a #3 and nuts oughta do it. There is an anchor on top (slung tree?) that I seem to remember as being ok, but you'd probably want to back it up for TRing.

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By Ben Sachs
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tricky climb!
By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009

Tommy Howard told me Rich Gotlieb climbed this in the 70s The name is his. Before perigrines the ravens used to hang out in force on this end of the cliff, hence the Poe names.

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