REI Community
Pogue's Cave Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blessed and Blissed S 
Buzz Lightyear S 
Funk Shui S 
Houkah S 
Jeremy Fisher S 
Labour of Love S 
Merlins Mantra S 
Never Never Land S 
Now and Zen S 
Ooey Gooey S 
Party Pogues S 
Pogue's Arete S 
POGy WOG S 
Prima Donna S 
Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The S 
Tweedle Dee S 
Tweedle Dum S 
Unknown S 

Never Never Land 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,886
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pulling up above the crux and into the easier terr...

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Steep! Climb two bolts to a fair rest, then tackle steep rock with several small roofs. Pull the crux where the holds thin to a no hands rest. Pass about 2 spaced bolts on 5.8 terrain to the anchors.

Location 

Down the hill from the cave, between Houka and a long 10b.

Protection 

8 Bolts + 2 open shuts.


Photos of Never Never Land Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux. July 2012.
Just below the crux. July 2012.

Comments on Never Never Land Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 16, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Try a heel-hook at the crux! Makes that insane crimp just a bit easier to deal with!
By Ryan Curry
Apr 22, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Some of the best rock we encountered at the Pogue's Cave area was on this climb. Fun, monkey (see gymnastic) movement to the crux bulge, then heel-hook and REACH.....I'll let you figure out the rest! Have fun!
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Apr 10, 2017

Please delete your comments. Your unsolicited beta takes away the possibility of on-sighting from everyone that scrolls through this route page.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 10, 2017

^^^^ Take away the beta? If you don't want any route beta, then don't troll around on a website where the mantra is "Beyond the Guidebook". If you're so pure, next time just show up to the crag, pick a line, and fire away Scotty.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Apr 13, 2017

I do want route information. I want to know where a route is and its grade. MP users typically do not spray beta in the route information so that everyone can have a chance to try and onsight.
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Apr 17, 2017

If all you want is route location and grade, then pick up a copy of Rock Climbing NM by Dennis Jackson. This is a bare bones guidebook that won't mess up a pure OS. I personally don't read the description of a route, comments or look at pictures of a route before I attempt to OS something. But it sure is fun to read the route description & comments later.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About