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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Faithful Journey T 
Galactic Hitchhikers T 
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Middle Earth T 
Never Never Land T 
Never Say Never T,TR 
Nevermore T 
On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
Set my bow in the cloud T 
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Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 

Never Never Land 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964
Page Views: 11,270
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (150)
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Working through the crux.


This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.

The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.

P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear supplemented by one fixed piton. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!

Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.


Standard Rack, extra thin gear.

Photos of Never Never Land Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the bolt.
Nearing the bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily with Marco belaying on Never Never Land, Oct...
Emily with Marco belaying on Never Never Land, Oct...
Rock Climbing Photo: NNL
Rock Climbing Photo: butt shot at the crux
butt shot at the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting Never Never Land.
Onsighting Never Never Land.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux
At the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Swain making the long crux reach.
Todd Swain making the long crux reach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Arliss on the lower section.
Jeff Arliss on the lower section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wow..... That's all I can say
Wow..... That's all I can say
Rock Climbing Photo: The only bolt is up and right 10ft...
The only bolt is up and right 10ft...

Comments on Never Never Land Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 24, 2017
By gilp
Sep 27, 2006

awesome climb. seems improbable that feet will work in the crux section, but they will. crux well protected and the upper section backs off to 5.8 or so.
By Cory B
Oct 12, 2008

awesome route! Two bolts, a piton, light thoughts and trust in your feet get you through this route.

I actually thought coronary was easier 10a correct?
By David Stowe
Oct 12, 2008

I think that you mean two pitons and one bolt. There has never been more than one bolt. It is not harder than 10a. If you tried going straight up from the bolt to the piton at the crux section then you will have found it harder. If you angled slightly left after the bolt then you will find it a bit easier as the holds are better. Fun climb, especially if you do the direct finish and don't move right up the easy groove.
By vanishing spy
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Get on this one before the feet get anymore glassy.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was my first 5.10 onsight and my 100th route in the Gunks, one of my all-time favorite climbs at this this crag. I've climbed this at least 20 times since, and I've never fallen - and never felt secure on the move above the bolt to the horizontal. Look out for the last move too, it feels 5.9 and protection is below your feet until you clip the final piton.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Last section after the big horizontal is run out and the climbing is continuously hard and thin. Back up the horizontal with a #2 and #3 because the fall would be big. Awesome scary face climbing.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
May 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

^^ I took that whipper the other day. I fell at least 20 feet on only the #3
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hard for the grade. The first horizontal takes a good offset cam (0/1 or 1/2, I don't remember).
By Caz Drach
From: Sugarhouse, UT
Oct 6, 2016

Excellent route that is more technical than most at the Gunks. All the moves are very manageable (some flexibility will make the physical crux easier) its the mental game that will be tested from the bolt to the pin. Footwork is key. A gem of a route.
By Rob D.
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 10, 2016

Climbed this again yesterday. More technical than most at this grade in the gunks but manageable and felt 5.10a. As others have said, get good gear in the last big horizontal (#3/#2 helpful) before the upper section.
By Gunkiemike
Apr 10, 2017

2 of the 3 pins have been removed from this route. Only the first remains. Caveat accordingly.
By SethG
Apr 11, 2017

I don't think I ever led it when the pins were there, but unless I'm mistaken these pins were in horizontals that also take gear. So I don't think the fact that the upper pins are gone changes the protection rating.

The low pin after the initial stand-up move is still in place, and even that pin is unnecessary. You can get a cam just above, from the same stance.
By mnjsan
Apr 12, 2017

Seth is correct. The pin above the crux section was quite unnecessary and according to the GCC pretty rotted out. The horizontal where the pin was will easily take pro.
By Systematic
Apr 24, 2017

One pin and one bolt on the route as of 4/22/17. With all the bickering about fixed gear I'm really surprised no one is talking about the nut placement in the seam 2" away from the bolt. :)

  • **Gear beta***
The first horizontal will also take a yellow totem cam in a flare that doesn't look like a placement. Up high I found useful a purple / Grey Metolius.

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