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Never Intended 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Thomas Compare, 1977, FL: Art Messier
Page Views: 2,264
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007

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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Quite sustained and steep sport climbing leads to easy slab climbing. Bring some finger strength along for this one.


Directly above Crack of Dust. Effectively a second pitch for any climb ending on the ledge above Crack of Dust.

Walk off left and then follow the 3rd class descent for the climbs at the far left of the climbing area.


Bolts. Bolt anchor (no rap rings).

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By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011

I tried to flash it and I would definitely say it's one of the hardest 10b's I've attempted at the gorge, at least the sequence my partner and I were trying (BETA- at the second bolt, working right and hanging off the flat mantle, over the orange bulge, before high stepping and rocking on the left foot).

Very well protected though with little to hit, a leader should feel very comfortable falling on this. And it has a decent amount of the grippy orange rock too.
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Jan 3, 2012

FA Art Messier? I dont think so, this route was put up in 1977
By wesnice
From: Brevard, NC
Aug 14, 2013

I found rap rings at the top and the rope made it to the base of Crack of Dust....tried both the mantle move to the right of the second bolt and climbing the shallow corner left of the second bolt and they were both interesting. Fun climb...
By off white
Feb 27, 2014

Ron's spot on, this was put up by Thomas Compare way back there, Art just put bolts in on the old top rope, much the same as he did on One Step Beyond, which he renamed "Escapade".
By Elush
From: CA
Mar 19, 2014

Be Careful attempting to rap from the top of this climb, to the bottom of Crack of Dust. High Potential for rope to become stuck...
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A very good climb for MG...can't believe I never got on it before. If this was at the base, it'd see a lot of traffic. Good rock, good with most good MG climbs...its just too damn short :)
By Skip Davis
Dec 2, 2015

Just a note, Thomas Compare passed away two years ago in Seattle. I climbed here in 50's as a teenager when a lot of the early routes were put up. I also climbed with Thomas when he lived in San Diego and owned a small climbing shop in P.B. I just happened upon this site and saw Thomas's name, so I thought if any of you folks knew Thomas you might like to know what happened to him. He was a very cool guy and would help anyone who needed help.
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 6, 2017

There's a bolt anchor w/rap rings on top (in between this and Quack of Ducks). You can rap to the ground w/a 60m from there.

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