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Never Forget Your Friends. 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Leland Windham, May, 1993
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

OK, people say the ratings at Vantage tend to be soft. This is rated 10d in the book and I hesitate to upgrade, but it is much harder than quite a few 11a's I have done at Vantage- maybe those should be downgraded.

Approach on the right side of broken column, chimney up to first bolt.
Crux between 4th and 6th bolt. I have tried both sides of column, a bit thinner on the left, more awkward on the right- with more gear options if you want from the crack. Being in the center on tiny crimps feels more like 11a.

Location 

The column arete behind a short pillar and right of Mr. Clean- 11a finger crack.

Protection 

9 bolts, cams for crack, small cams up to 1-2"- perhaps the name implies this.
This now has a bolted sport clip anchor.


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 3, 2017

I PULLED MANY LOOSE BLOCKS NEAR THE TOP. I think it is solid now, just beware of the block on the ledge where finger crack runs up to the anchor. 3/1/17

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