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Pricks and Ticks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dyan Padagas, Kevin Hogan and Jason Martin - March 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 770
Submitted By: Jason D. Martin on Mar 30, 2010

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obviously, this was taken from the base and skews ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route can be found just right of Prime Rib. It climbs the obvious curving crack and then continues to the summit of the feature. We know that the first pitch was previously climbed. We discovered bolts at the top of the pitch and an old sling around a block. We believe that we were the first to do the upper three pitches of the route. However, anyone is welcome to dispute that fact.

The route was named "Pricks and Ticks" because I had the unfortunate opportunity to fall into a cactus on the descent. In addition to that, it seemed like we were battling an unusually large number of ticks throughout the day.

Pitch 1 - Climb the beautiful arching crack up to a ledge. Most of the crack is 5.7, but as it squeezes down and traverses, it becomes 5.9. Belay at the double-bolt anchor. (160', 5.9)

Pitch 2 - Climb up past a brushy ledge and onto the arete. The black patina on the arete is similar to that found on Armatron or Going Nuts, but much less sustained. As the rock quality deteriorates, step left onto a ledge and build a belay. (100', 5.7)

Pitch 3 - Climb up a chimney up and right. Continue to traverse right to a belay ledge at the base of a large corner. (75', 5.5)

Pitch 4 - Climb up the corner to the summit. More good black rock can be found on this spectacular pitch. At the top, be sure to put in directionals so that the rope doesn't knock loose rock onto your partners. (160', 5.7)

Location 

This route can be found just right of Prime Rib. It climbs the obvious and classic arching crack.

Protection 

Standard Red Rock rack. Doubles from .5-3.


Photos of Pricks and Ticks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: second
second
Rock Climbing Photo: jason taking the lead
jason taking the lead
Rock Climbing Photo: pricks and ticks
pricks and ticks
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin on the first pitch
kevin on the first pitch

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