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High Energy Wall
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ADP T 
Amped T 
Lighting Dream S 
Neutron T 
Proton T 
Unnamed 5.9+ T 

Neutron 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bauer/Osman '88
Page Views: 1,081
Submitted By: Tyson Waldron on Oct 3, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Tyson ionizing on the the obscure classic that is ...

Description 

Neutron is an excellent right leaning hand crack in a steep corner. Neutron will probably be the first obvious feature you notice on the approach to High Energy Wall.

The original line shares an anchor with another very classic leaning crack called Proton, which is off to the left. Ryan Curry and FA-ist Mark Bauer added a direct line and anchors, which does not increase difficulty, and continues straight up from the end of the Neutron corner..

The position of the original anchor will create some heinous rope grinding drag if you were to just lower off of it, so we elected to belay from the cozy ledge up top and rap back to the ground. (You can also set a few directionals and TR Proton if you want from these anchors) Or as Ryan points out in the comments, you can climb to the direct line to anchors instead.

I understand there is also a second pitch from the original (Proton) anchor station, but I don't have any beta on it.

Location 

Start on the slab directly below the Neutron corner, not in the moss filled corner to the right.

Protection 

.3 to #3, likes #2 through crux


Photos of Neutron Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: neutron .10a
neutron .10a
Rock Climbing Photo: Kenny on Neutron
Kenny on Neutron

Comments on Neutron Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Curry
Oct 6, 2014

Mark Bauer and I added a direct finish to avoid the traverse at the end of the original pitch. If you continue straight up from the end of the corner you can link into another crack/flake (2 bolts) to a separate anchor at the top of the cliff. This stretch goes at 5.7/5.8-ish.
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
Oct 13, 2014

Did this route to the Bauer/Curry finish. This direct finish really adds to the route overall and keeps the rope drag to a minimum. I skipped the bolts and found decent pro in the crack/flake. Classic line from beginning to end
By Khick
Oct 15, 2014

Do the direct finish! It feels too short if you go let to the anchors on the ledge.

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