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(4) Star Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 
Cry of the Gerbil  S 
Dark Star T 
Daytime Drama S 
Freon T 
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 
Last Days T 
Left Wing T,S 
Lethal Dose T,TR 
Levitate T 
Mantra T 
Mantra Extension T 
Morning Star T 
Neutron Star T 
St. Paddee's Day T 
Tim S 
Turning Point T 

Neutron Star 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 624
Submitted By: Blake Allen Green on May 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The old anchor. Pin was better than the bolt which...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome gorge climbing, a typical "innie" between Dark Star and Morning Star. Begin with funky stem/smear moves and a high hand-foot match protected by small gear to a good stance on a rail. Clip the first pin, breath, and fight crimps, locks, and smears to a slopy block at the bolt. Finesse and power your way through a deadpoint crux and play find the kneebar. Clip three more pins as you fight through technical smears and awkward bulging slots. Try to catch your breath at the last pin before a flared handjam and sidepull sequence gives way to easier climbing.

Location 

Count two corners right of Morning Star, or two corners left of Cry of the Gerbil. Start on a block that rises to chest height.

Protection 

All the old fixed pins have been replaced, making the pro much more inspiring than before. 00 thru 2 metolius and a half dozen quickdraws should do it.


Comments on Neutron Star Add Comment
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By Jon Rhoderick
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

All fixed gear has been replaced with new bolts. Go for it!
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
May 22, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Gear beta alert. Make sure your gear in between the first and 2nd bolts is good, the crack is quite flaring but I was able to fidget two pieces in that feature. Also, a green C3 and a blue ball nut protect the final moves quite well.

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