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Neutron Dance 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas, mid 80s
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: e Dixon on Oct 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


P1 - A short approach pitch up and right to the base of the splitter (5.7).

P2 - Nice steep splitter handcrack (5.10+).

Decent - (2) ropes are necessary


A ways to the right of Cactus Flower.


Some smaller pieces, but the bulk of it is #2 & #3 Camalots

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By Gordon Douglass
Jul 16, 2009

Hi there - Stuart Ruckman and myself did the first ascent of "Neutron Dance" back in the mid 80's or so. I remember the second pitch as being very good - a great splitter/small corner ending on a nice little ledge. We chose the name because at the time authorities were considering creating a nuclear waste repository in the vicinity of Canyonlands National Park.

Best regards - Gordon Douglass
By JPFox
From: SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2010

The bolts at the anchor are Sketch! Great route, Scary Rap
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Another incredible two pitch route. The first pitch is very spivey for 5.7, with a wild hand/armbar bellyflop foot wedgy traverse. Two BD #1 needed for the belay. Pitch two is about as good as it gets. Many BD #1 and a few 2s and 3s.
The anchor is fine. Two good and solid bolts, yes leader hangers but you are not wipping off them, just rapping, and the chains are good. Plus there is a solid piton. Bring extra webbing to replace the old stuff on the piton.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Nov 26, 2012

110ft slightly over hanging handcrack...yes please!
By slim
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

excellent route, just a total blast. 80m gets you all the way down easily, not sure if a 70 would do it or not(?).
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 20, 2014

I had more trouble with the first pitch. Awsome 2nd pitch!
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Apr 11, 2016

Great route!! There are brand new shiny bolts at the top of the second pitch, and our 70m rope barely got us down on rappel. Rack: black diamond 1x 0.3, 1x 0.4, 1x 0.75, 3x 1, 5x 2, 6x 3, 1x 3.5, 1x 5. The #5 is nice to have for the first pitch which is placed before an airy traverse. This rack includes a #1,2,and 3 Camelot that my partner placed at the anchor on top of the first pitch. Bolder leaders could get away with less gear, but I am a wimp...
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Sep 30, 2016

Nuetron Dance indeed! Excellent route--even in the rain! Weird airy traverse at end of 5."7" first pitch. It's all about the 2nd pitch! Hands to hands to hands, finish on hands!
By blue ribbon
From: Indian Creek, UT
Nov 24, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Modern anchors. Can be done in one 40m pitch with a little bit of creativity.

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