|Type:||Ice, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Submitted By:||Gunkiemike on Jan 21, 2010|
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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Mar 12, 2010
If the first pitch isn't in (not unlikely) you can follow the original Neurosis rock route which starts 50-75 meters climber's left of the Neurosis Direct start. The start for the rock route is just up and left of Raptor's Scream. Start on a left-to-right trending sloping ledge and gain the dike-rock tree ledge and make a move around the arete to a fixed anchor (5.6 G). Continue traversing right in the dike-rock past a few fixed pitons to a vegetated slope and on to the upper WI3- section of Neurosis (5.6 G). This rock traverse into Neurosis is known as The Italian Traverse.
In addition, if the last pitch of Neurosis isn't looking good, walk climber's right about 30 meters for another WI4+ pitch called Hidden Pique that is a bit more sheltered from the sun.
While on the large forested terrace, look skier's right for a large tree with a fixed anchor near the edge of the cliff. Two 60 meter ropes will take you to another tree with a fixed anchor just above a large roof above the vegetated slope in the dike-rock. Rappel down to another fixed anchor on some less than inspiring trees and make a final rappel to the ground.