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Pentapitch Area
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Neuromancer 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nelson, Oaks
Page Views: 2,647
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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From the top

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Neuromancer climbs the slick slabs just left of Pentapitch, and it looks deceivingly easy. It starts hard and eases up a bit after the 2nd bolt.

    Protection 

    Neuromancer requires 6 draws And 1-2 small pieces are optional.


    Photos of Neuromancer Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rud following the finish
    Rud following the finish

    Comments on Neuromancer Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 23, 2005

    got lucky as hell and on-sighted this in july!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 13, 2005

    Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Sep 13, 2005

    The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off".
    By Rob C.
    From: Freeport, ME
    May 12, 2006

    If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb
    By john gilchrist
    From: sLC, utah
    Jun 8, 2006

    spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them
    By Joseph Kolnik
    From: Holladay, UT
    Aug 13, 2008
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it.
    By Aimee Bates
    Jun 20, 2009

    This climb is really fun! That being said, it kicked my ass. (On TR!) I "climbed" the beginning 3 different ways. Arete on definitely seemed the most feesible. Straight up the face is really hard with no hands and greasy feet. Using the crack to the left is significantly easier, prob more like 5.10a.
    By Petz Pretz
    From: Salt Lake City
    Sep 2, 2009

    Smear smear and smear again...sometimes no hands...

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