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BETA PHOTO: "Nestle Crunch". Photo by Blitzo.
Located on the southwest face of Little Rock Candy Mountain, this is the route to the right of Sugar Daddy. An easy start leads to a very thin corner. Good feet at the base of the corner fade, requiring multiple moves of stemming. Follow the corner up to the roof. Undercling and reach for the 5' roof move. The route then joins Sugar Daddy for easy climbing to the top.
Unless you have very thin fingers, this route requires multiple stemming moves. A good precursor to the more challenging stemming routes.
Small nuts, multiple purple/blue tcu's. Smattering of hand size for upper crack/belay.
By Russ Walling
Nov 7, 2010
Gave this a quick try today on TR since we were on the crack next door.... Good Lord! I was not only denied, but quickly upgraded it to 5.16c. Must have been a heavy gravity day. It will see me again.