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Chock full o' nuts T 
Morsel Line T 
Nescafe' T 

Nescafe' 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: 9/29/10 Todd Paris, Mike Prince
New Route: Yes
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Tparis on Sep 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Both this route and "chock full o' nuts" can be climbed as one long route with a 70m rope or broken up into 2 pitches.

Location 

starts right at the base of the boulder in the description in the guide book. P1 5.5PG (5.4R) Up the obvious crack onto the right rising ramp. Climb up right, then into a shallow v corner and up to a flaring crack, step up and right to a small ledge to find some pro before the run out slab. Step back left and up past a sill and a couple of nice pockets. P2 5.6 G Climb the hand crack up and then step left onto the steep slab with a dirty crack in the corner climb this to its top (beware of the loose block) wander up over a series of smaller walls and ledges to the top.

Rap off the tree anchor at the top. 70m rope is required to reach the midway rap anchors! From the mid anchors a 60m rope just reaches the ground.

Protection 

Full rack of cams Doubles helpful up to 2". Pink tri-cam also useful.


Comments on Nescafe' Add Comment
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By aghetie
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

Could not find the anchors on this route (8/10/13), either midpoint or at the top. Have they been removed?
By Tparis
From: Pottersville,New York
Aug 12, 2013

it is a tree(hemlock) anchor, cord and two carabiners. midpoint you need to build a gear anchor or traverse climbers left to a hemlock tree with webbing and rings.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 12, 2013

I thought this was a surprisingly good route for the grade. Not sure about the "double cams", as I don't think there's enough places to put them. From the top, you can make a short rap to the anchors on Sheik of the Burning Sands (the winter route), then a 30m rap to the ground. Walking around the right end is quite long, slabby, and unpleasant.

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