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Nervous in Suburbia 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Joy Kor, 1988
Page Views: 16,270
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Feb 19, 2002  with updates from George Perkins

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (368)
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Beautiful climb, slightly high first bolt like man...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I couldn't quite bring myself to give a 50 foot sport route on Wall Street 3 stars, but this is a really really good route all the same. Devious face climbing reminiscent of Eldo (thin edges that slant the wrong way, etc.). It starts 2 climbs left of the prominent and popular LF corner, "30 Seconds Over Potash" (in between is a thin .10a LF corner, Lucy in the Sky with Potash"). The first bolt is a bit high (climb in from the right), but once clipped it will be at your waist for the crux sequence. Above is 5.8-5.9ish climbing with 3 adequately spaced bolts, to a good bolted anchor.

    Protection 

    4 bolts. I didn't notice any gear placements. A 50-M rope works fine.


    Photos of Nervous in Suburbia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great route! Love the balance moves.
    Great route! Love the balance moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stick to the wall.  Straight up with little crimps...
    Stick to the wall. Straight up with little crimps...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Rittenmeyer on Nervous in Suburbia.
    Lee Rittenmeyer on Nervous in Suburbia.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Route finding is not a problem...
    Route finding is not a problem...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Liz and I reenacting a classic
    Liz and I reenacting a classic
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crux for shorter folks is definitely in the first ...
    Crux for shorter folks is definitely in the first ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nervous in Suburbia - June/28th/2015 On Sight
    Nervous in Suburbia - June/28th/2015 On Sight
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux move is really fun.
    The crux move is really fun.
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Nervous In Suburbia" Moab Utah
    "Nervous In Suburbia" Moab Utah
    Rock Climbing Photo: It's easier if you can clone yourself.
    It's easier if you can clone yourself.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nervous in Suburbia
    Nervous in Suburbia
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lee working the crux.
    Lee working the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Nervous in Suburbia
    Climbing Nervous in Suburbia
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jables on N.I.S.
    Jables on N.I.S.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sizing down the next clip for the OS
    Sizing down the next clip for the OS
    Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun onsight, trust the holds!!
    Really fun onsight, trust the holds!!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave - Higher up on the climb
    Dave - Higher up on the climb
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Nervous In Suburbia" Moab, UT
    "Nervous In Suburbia" Moab, UT
    Rock Climbing Photo: first bolt on nervous
    first bolt on nervous

    Comments on Nervous in Suburbia Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 1, 2017
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 5, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I found that climbing in to the first bolt from the right was harder than just going sraight up, then mantling the big edge to stand and clip. This should be done by a solid climber. The sequence after the clip is fun and is reach dependent. A tall person can reach the next two holds and might downgrade the sequence difficulty. This was really fun and mostly positive rather than your typical Navajo formation slopers.

    The two bolts side-by side at the 3rd (?) clip were both decent, but one was hangerless. Take up a small stopper to swage this (the nut is still there) and you can back up the clip.
    By Matthew
    Feb 6, 2005

    awesome route, it was the 3rd route i climbed in moab, right after 30 seconds over potash, and lucy in the sky with potash. three classics. this climb felt harder than 10a to me, but i was used to pocketed limestone of AF, so my judgement is rather irrelevent. great climb, recommend it to all. getting to the first bolt can be sketchy if your not solid.
    By Petsfed
    From: Laramie, WY
    May 31, 2006

    Going straight up from the first bolt can make the next several moves a bit harder. An almost-deadpoint worked best for me. Sporty.
    By Jonathan Schumacher
    From: Sandy, UT
    Jun 20, 2007

    Novel climb. I could not get used to the (then-1998) pitons as protection. Interesting moves and a nice exhilarating break from crack climbing!
    By Daniel Crescenzo
    Oct 8, 2007
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    height dependent rating. I am 5'7" so this is like a 10b for me. lot's of fun though. I hope that little crystal of calcite stays for a while.
    By John Wilder
    From: Las Vegas, NV
    Apr 19, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    good route, but clip that 1st bolt off the big foot ledge down low...i managed to do another move before clipping and scared the crap out of my 'spotter'!
    By Deaun Schovajsa
    Dec 19, 2008

    This is a fun route. I first climbed this in 1989, then climbed again about a year ago. I was surprised that the edges were still pretty positive and the climbing hadn't changed much in 18 years.
    By Lynn S
    Mar 13, 2009
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Fun route, first clip is off the ground a bit. Moved through the crux by heading left from the first bolt. Good match to the left for hands, small ramp for feet, go for the obvious large rail out left. Engaging climbing above. Belayer needs to be attentive as there is potential for a near grounder if you mess up the moves getting to the second bolt.
    By BJ Sbarra
    From: Carbondale, CO
    May 6, 2010
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Thanks to the ASCA (and I'm guessing Sam) for the new anchor and replacing the old pins on this one.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Jul 10, 2010

    It was rebolted with bolt placements as close to the originals as possible. This kept it in the style it was done in at the F.A.... and all subsequent ascents til this year
    By Jason Lantz
    Jul 11, 2010

    climbed this one the other day. Glad to see the hardware update. Thanks to Sam!
    By Rob C.
    From: Freeport, ME
    Oct 31, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Fun and reach-y, thanks to the folks that stick clipped the 1st bolt for me! I'm so short.
    By Cody Drool
    From: BEAVERTON, OR
    May 21, 2011

    Super fun & balancey route. Positive holds. High first bolt like most Moab sport climbs. I would say this is a Potash classic bolted route. A must do!
    By Greg Halliday
    From: Spanish Fork, UT
    Oct 30, 2011

    Great climb. As others have said, it may be more difficult for shorter folks. I'm 5'9" and seem to do okay. The rating is solid for me. May be easier if you're taller; certainly is harder if shorter (my GF at the time told me so.) She was a really good climber and could flash pretty much any 5.11c/d (crack, face, bald slab, juggy overhang, plastic at the gym) you could throw at her. She is/was 5'3" tall and the reach on the crux was vexing. She had to make a smidge of a dyno about it. It was cool to watch.
    By jeacmusic
    Feb 24, 2012
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

    Crimpalicious !!! Fun, reachy and sequency for the first 2 bolts, the end is a lot of fun!!
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Mar 9, 2012
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

    Yep, that first clip would be ankle damage if you fell. I woulda stick-clipped it if it was much tougher. Very balancy. Felt tougher than10a to me. If it had a couple more bolts, then 10a would be about right. Great route just for the balance it requires.
    By chosspector
    From: San Juans, CO
    Oct 20, 2012

    How could more bolts change the grade?
    By Hendo Henderson
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 23, 2012
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Dang! This route was crazy. The first bolt is high! Took me a while to just pull the move and go for the clip. It's almost crazy how this route is outside. It's such a balanc-y and gym like route. Awesome moves the whole way up. Very sustained. It gets run out after the 2nd bolt, but the climbing is easiest here (not easy, but easiest). Everytime you pull a rough move and clip, it felt like there was a great big slopping foot that you could rest on and regain your sanity. Good climb if you get to that first bolt!
    By Shippster Shipp
    From: Laguna Beach, California
    Nov 6, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Did this route today. High quality for the entire pitch. The crux is between the first and second bolts. Match hands and reach high. This is definitely a 5.10b.
    By Andrew S.
    From: Bouldurr
    Nov 21, 2012

    This climb is awesome. First bolt is up there. Starting up the ramp can lead to a tricky move around the corner to make the clip. I would go for a direct start next time. Get on it for sure.
    By JFM
    May 20, 2013

    Fun route after getting the first bolt clipped. To echo other comments: send a solid, confident or foolish leader as getting to that first bold is a bit tenuous.
    By Justin Brink
    From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
    Apr 2, 2014

    short, but great. Don't miss this one! May be helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt.
    By kayajn
    Nov 3, 2014

    Really fun route, and a nice break from SO MUCH SLAB at potash road. At 5'3'' the beginning felt way harder for me than a 10.a, but great climb regardless. First bolt is really high. Stick clip if you're into that.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I don't think you need to stick clip this guy as the moves are all there. But, there is nothing wrong with safety. Weird moves after the 1st bolt.
    By Conor O
    From: Fort Collins, Colorado
    Jan 3, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Awesome 5.10 start is a little tricky, but it truly is one of my favorite climbs at wall street a must-do!
    By Garrett C
    From: SL,UT
    Apr 4, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    One of the "juggiest" problems on wallstreet. First bolt is definitely up there, but none of the moves up to it are terribly difficult. I am 5'9" and didnt struggle. Was great to have a problem that wasn't all friction or crack. Great route.
    By C Miller
    Administrator
    From: CA
    Dec 12, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    By Zachery Henry
    Feb 27, 2017

    When did this route go from being a 5.9 to 5.10a?
    By baffledsloth
    Aug 1, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    I don't know, but the crux is definitely a 10a move. Anyway, one of the anchor bolts is spinning. Bring a wrench to tighten it down. Also, bring a stick clip if you wouldn't climb 20ft off the deck unprotected. It's 5.8ish moves to get there, but there's really no reason not to stick clip it unless you're into highball V-easy.

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