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Lamb Dome
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Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 
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Little Sheba Continuation T 
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Nerve Wrack Point T 
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Nerve Wrack Point 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Tom Higgins and Pat Ament 6/71
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 18, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the route whose FA was chronicled in Pat Ament's book Swaramandal. It ascends the right side of the most prominent face on the west-facing side of Lamb Dome.

Pitch 1 - climb over a small overlap(used to be a fixed pin here) then head up and right past several bolts to a ledge and a gear belay. This pitch used to be rated 5.8, but is now, more appropriately, rated 5.9.

Pitch 2 - climb up a small right facing corner then up a face past two bolts to a two bolt belay. There is another set of belay bolts off to the right about halfway up this pitch. I am not sure what they are doing out there.

Pitch 3 - up a short face(5.8) to a crack leading sharply right which is followed to the end of the climb.

Location 

This route starts about 1/2 of the way up the ramp that separates the main face with the wall containing Little Sheba on the right. There is a very prominent swale on the face above. Start almost directly below the crest of the swale.

From the top of the climb either walk off down and right or continue up to On the Lamb for a full pleasure outing.

Protection 

Take a rack of stoppers and cams to 2".


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