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The Bastille - W Face
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Neon Lights 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: [Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, John Ruger, Ed Webster, 1975]
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 1,471
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

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  • Description 

    The first pitch (5.10b) is mostly a matter of commitment if you are 6'0" or taller. At 5'10, the move starts getting 'big.' The gear is only so-so and requires the leader to trust some odd holds. The climbing gets easier after the big move, but the gear does not get good for a while. Rossiter said this is "unprotectable." I disagree, but will admit that the gear is a little iffy. The second pitch (5.11a) is a blast. Tape up, take 2 sets of cams and enjoy the ride.

    Protection 

    The protection on the "rarely done" first pitch crux is a poor pink or red tricam above some nuts that are lower down. The second pitch, which is easily reached without doing the first can be protected with a few bolts and hand-sized cams.


    Photos of Neon Lights Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the crux.
    Near the crux.

    Comments on Neon Lights Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Dawson
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 18, 2002

    After pulling the roof on the first pitch, it is very easy to move left onto Sunset Boulevard (just after the crux) and enjoy the steep huecoed climbing on that pitch.
    By David A. Turner
    May 26, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

    2nd pitch: great pro (including a #3 1/2 Camalot), super fun, very steep.
    By Dave Holliday
    Jun 16, 2016

    I led the first pitch recently. I was able to get a yellow Alien at the start of the roof in solid rock. I'm not sure it would keep you from hitting a ledge if you blew the crux move but at least you wouldn't be falling onto the gear in the mudstone below the roof.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jun 20, 2016

    The "jug" on the first pitch is hard to reach if you are not tall. Once you have it, the rest of the first pitch is easier, and there is a pod to rest in right after the crux.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 12, 2016

    As per the note above abut a yellow Alien in solid rock - yeah, maybe, but it just blew out on Saturday and that's changed. So don't count on that at this point. I went for the route again after running a trail race with no warm up and couldn't get my feet high. I jumped off from a few feet above that cam and ended up taking a 40' fall when it went out.

    Luckily, I'd told my partner I expected that, so I had placed a few small Aliens below that and ended up 8' off of the ground.

    Don't take P1 casually.

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