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Neo-Quasi Bugaloo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Fixed Hardware: 12 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,916
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 3, 2001

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Approaching the upper crux. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic...

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  • Description 

    One of the longest single pitches on the crag, coming in at about 105 feet. Bring a 60m rope or 2-50m. This route is the second route right of the big crack/gully system running through the middle of the crag. This route is the furthest line left running through the obvious roof. The climbing starts through some rough terrain (not very fun) and then breaks left at the 3rd bolt, I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a. Place long draws on the bolts below the roof to avoid rope drag. Once you pull the roof climb to a rest 3 bolts from the top. Clipping the 10th/11th bolt may be difficult if you are under 5'4", quite commiting and the crux of the route. From here, climb over the top and get your body in that alcove to clip the anchors, weird body position. Altogether a nice route, with crimps on the slab, a roof to pull and continuity. 2 stars.


    12 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Neo-Quasi Bugaloo Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the upper crux on this long pitch. Photo by P...
    Near the upper crux on this long pitch. Photo by P...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke on the overhang/corner with another climber a...
    Luke on the overhang/corner with another climber a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Not sure the finishing moves can be described as 1...
    Not sure the finishing moves can be described as 1...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke on the slab. It feels like cheating climbing ...
    Luke on the slab. It feels like cheating climbing ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The juggy ceiling. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    The juggy ceiling. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
    Rock Climbing Photo: There's a hard slab move here, but you can bypass ...
    There's a hard slab move here, but you can bypass ...

    Comments on Neo-Quasi Bugaloo Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2014
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 19, 2002 this called Neo-Quasi Bugaloo, a small band in Denver made that term up in 1997 to describe a blend of all musical styles, focusing mainly on fun. Please e-mail me back to expalin this violation at
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 22, 2002

    That's really cool. Sorry, if I sounded like a jerk, that's just my sense of humor. I'm the drummer of Askimbo and althought Geoff (the pastor's son) is no longer in the band, I still talk to him quite a bit. Thanks for the reference. I'm to tell all my Boulder friends about this.
    By Jason Carter
    From: Monument, CO
    Jun 30, 2002

    An excellent line with thin face moves down low, a pumpy roof to a good rest, more face climbing to difficult sidepull moves that finally get you to a fun mantle and the top. My first lead up this I couldn't figure out the side pulls near the top so I moved left into the corner and laybacked up to the 11th bolt. I did the route again on TR and still found the side pull moves quite tricky, but manageable; these are just like the side pulls that spit me off of Bonehead 5.10c @##$##$%%!!!! Excellent line with good bolt placements and a really cool, although totally conspicuous and aesthetically unfriendly, top anchor, but maybe not as cool as Airheads chains.
    By Drew Allan
    From: Denver/Aspen
    Aug 31, 2002
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    If you are trying to determine which is route is easier to climb between this route and its neighbor, Learning to Crawl, I would suggest LTC. Although rated slighter lower, NQB is definitely harder than LTC in IMHO. There are approximately four crux sections on this route and, with the added length, makes NQB more challenging. The roof on this route is more involved than LTC. My partner felt the same way. Interesting to see what others think.
    By richard magill
    Sep 3, 2002

    I did these routes with a 5'2" woman and a 12 year old, and they both found NQB to be significantly trickier than LTC. 10c and 10a were the official estimates, respectively.I'm about 5'9", and the two routes don't seem all that different to me, although I would agree that NQB is more continuous.
    By rags
    Apr 28, 2007

    I thought it was harder than 10a more like 10c in my opinion. The traverse down low was out of character for the route. Solid moves throughout, great route!
    By Mikeco
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 16, 2008

    "I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a."

    If you go straight up/right of the bolt line, it's definitely solid 11, I'd say. Ultra thin, committing slab work involved, and it's more than just one move.
    By Scott Thurnauer
    Dec 19, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I liked all the routes on this wall so far, and this was a great long route with a lot of cool moves, some slab, a little roof, some side pull and the clips were all pretty good.
    By Mrk9182 Kerechek
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 11, 2012
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Super fun climb, great variety of moves. The slab felt much harder than the 10a/b right next to it.
    By goingUp
    From: over here
    May 17, 2014
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Jugs, slabs, crimps, and a roof all in one route! 10b, slabby, crimp moves!
    By Parker Wrozek
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 11, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Awesome route. The slabs are crazy if you stay on the bolt line. Clipping the third bolt is the crux IMO, very sketchy clip with some serious fall potential. The roof is awesome and super easy really. The slab above the roof is also tough. Just when you get through the slabs, you get the thank you so much jugs to save you. Highly recommended and worth the hike up. I would put both slabs at 5.10c, much harder then LTC.

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