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Neil's Lunge 

Hueco: V4- Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Neil Pothier
Page Views: 3,356
Submitted By: tscupp on Apr 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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Keith back a few years ago


This was my first V4 and I still love doing it every time I visit the warm up cave. Thankfully it feels a bit easier now than that first time!

Start on the obvious left facing flake in the center of the wall. Make some fun moves up the flake to two crimps then a tougher move to the sidepull (or gaston) and one more tricky move to the top.

And avoid good holds out right for full value.

  • Beta* - If you are having trouble getting the sidepull, consider getting clever with the flake and your right heel (worked for me at least).


Center of warm up cave, big left facing flake.


Pad or two.

Photos of Neil's Lunge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: x-through on Neils
x-through on Neils
Rock Climbing Photo: Hitting the sidepull
Hitting the sidepull
Rock Climbing Photo: Back step with your right heel before you head out...
BETA PHOTO: Back step with your right heel before you head out...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris figuring out his crazy foot beta on Neil's L...
BETA PHOTO: Chris figuring out his crazy foot beta on Neil's L...
Rock Climbing Photo: Funky footwork
Funky footwork
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting Neil's
Starting Neil's
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex going for it
Alex going for it
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on the start of Neil's
Alex on the start of Neil's

Comments on Neil's Lunge Add Comment
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By ckersch
May 20, 2013
rating: V3+ 6A+

A few fun variations on Niels lunge that also might be worth doing:

a) Climb up cave warm up (the V0 to the right of Neil's) to the big jug, then traverse left through the horizontal crack and finish up Neil's lunge. (V2)

b) Starting on the start hold of cave warm up, move directly out left using a big, enjoyable layback to establish on the start to Neils. (V4)
By Graham O.
Jul 15, 2016
rating: V3-4 6A+

Really a lot of fun! The crux for me was hitting that slot up high.
By Jack Ritzenberg
Oct 15, 2016
rating: V4 6B

Great climb!, twisting your right foot into the flake really helps with hitting the sidepull.
By Brady Chiongbian
From: Providence, RI
Jun 1, 2017

Try using a left kneebar in the flake into the left hand gaston. Makes for a nice chill static move

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