Needle and Squaretops Rock Climbing
Ben enjoying the morning view of the Needles from ...
The Organ Needle is the highest and probably the most visited peak in the Organs. The trail to it can be reached from either La Cueva or Modoc Mine Road and winds up the west side of it. (It has been overused and is in horrible condition.) When you reach Hummingbird Saddle (at the top of Dark Canyon) the Retaining Wall is to your right, Minerva's Temple lower down ahead of you, about the direction of Sugarloaf.
The Squaretops are to the north of Organ Needle. As viewed from Organ Needle, there are two peaks divided by a gully running North-South between them. The peak to the left is refered to as Little Sqauretop and is the peak that is seen when gazing at the Organs from the West. The peak on the right is referred to as Little Squaretop Massif and is similarly the only peak visible when gazing at the Organs from the East. To make these names even more confusing, Squaretop peak (or Big Squaretop) is the square-like cog further north along the mountain ridge, but it only resembles a square-cog when viewed from the west.
There are a number of old mountaineering routes up to these summits, as well as steep technical climbs which can be found on the myriad of faces, ridges, and pinnacles which surround these peaks. These include the Tiger Fang formation, found low on the northeast side of Little Squaretop Massif, which is a stunning shark-fin-like pinnacle first climbed in 1956.
From La Cueva or Modoc Mine Road, or on the east side from about the middle of Pine Tree Trail, look at individual peaks and/or routes for details.
Climbing Season For the Organ Mountains area.
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Needle and Squaretops
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Needle and Squaretops:
Featured Route For Needle and Squaretops
Second Peak Syndrome 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b New Mexico
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Little Squaretop Massif
This is by far the most straight forward and cleanest way to get to the summit of Little Squaretop Massif.Go up the wide chimney, stemming some then climbing the crack on the left. An awkward but fully protectable exit to the left will take you onto a small ledge and an easy ground. Belay from the rap station or set up your own.To get to the summit, crawl through the opening behind the rap station and then head right....[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
Squaretop Gully in flood. Yes, it does rain in the...